In a message dated 19/10/2010 Diane writes:

> Michael, this book may be a resource for you.   "Singer Instructions for 
> Art Embroidery &Lacework", a reprint of the  1941 edition is available at 
> Lacis in Berekley, Calif.

But it is soooo difficult to do.  I have an original and it shows you how 
to embroider with nothing more than an early Singer zigzag machine.  The 
degree of precision and control required is phenomenal.  And close up, it is 
still obviously machine embroidery not bobbin lace.

You will certainly be able to programme your machine, relatively easily, to 
embroider the paths that would be taken by the bobbin threads in these 
early laces, so from a distance of a couple of feet or so it will be a good 
aproximation of the lace.  But any closer than that and *anyone that knows 
bobbin lace* will be able to tell.  That isn't an enormous percentage of the 
population, but it depends on the scruples of the wearers!  The shape and 
design 
possibly "could be accomplished at the microscopic level"
 but the method of production will not fool; if the SCA practitioners want 
it accurate to this level, they need to learn to make bobbin lace.

If you are thinking of reproducing the pointed edges that were used on 
ruffs etc, also consider the after care.  I supect that the most probable way 
you will programme to embroider is to have straight stitches marking the 
paths, which will then be satin stitched over.  I also suspect that if this 
gets 
wet (in the rain) or needs to be washed that it will curl up and be even 
more of a B to block back into shape than the equivalent bobbin lace would be.  
With the bobbin lace the thread paths (in the plaits) are basically in the 
direction of the work.  With the machine embroidery the threads paths will 
be fighting against each other (can't think of a better way to describe it).  
And don't forget you will have to do this too as you wash away the soluble 
fabric, but at least you have the advantage of being able to pin it out 
before you wet it, before it contracts and curls.

The similar designs of early laces used as a braid and appliqued onto 
fabric would be much easier to look after.

Usually machine embroidered laces have the open, dainty areas supported by 
more solid borders (as with real lace), and this is possibly for the above 
reason as much as to replicate handmade lace.

I heard someone once say that one reason why Beds lace went out of favour 
(as a commonly worn lace) was that ladies maids also became far less common.  
In the same way as nine pin edge needs to be pinned out to regain its 
'virgin' appearance after washing, this machine made lace would need intensive 
care.  Make sure that the potential SCA lace wearers appreciate the amount of 
fiddly work the lace will need.

If you can get access to the Lace Crafts Quarterly magazines (now defunct 
after only four years of production, in the late 80s/early 90s), possibly in 
the IOLI library? some of those have good articles on working reproduction 
handmade lace on a machine.  But not the very early lace.

Jacquie in Lincolnshire

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