Dear Thread Users,  

 
There are many people - some on Arachne - who are proud to be  self-taught. 
 However, self-taught can mean some important information is  not imagined 
when it comes to the most important ingredient of lace --  thread.  
 
For the past few months, Barbara Ballantyne (Australia) and I have  been 
corresponding about her recent findings in connection with thread  quality.  
The importance of consistently-manufactured quality threads  cannot be 
denied.  Nearly all of us assume we are getting what we always  paid for, but 
that 
may not be the case in some instances..

 
 
Barbara has written and self-published a 16-page illustrated study of  her 
findings, "The Structure of Threads for Lace", 2010, ISBN 978  0980850703.  
This would be useful for perfectionist lacemakers, lace  teachers, lace 
judges, local lace guild libraries, and thread  manufacturers.  Though her 
first 
passion is Irish Crochet, what she has to  say applies to the threads for 
all laces, and you can adapt her methods of  testing to the thread options 
you are considering.  For more information,  go to   _www.crochethistory.com_ 
(http://www.crochethistory.com/)   Then,  select "Books", go to the last one 
and click on "More information".
 
The twist of thread comes up in various books.  Pat Earnshaw discussed  it 
in "Threads of Lace - From Source to Sink", 1989.  Brenda Paternoster's  
"Threads for Lace" lists the number of plies and direction of twist of many  
threads.  "Z" and "S" twist was mentioned in the January 2011 issue of  
"Lace", the quarterly magazine and newsletter of The Lace Guild (UK), pg.  12:  
"Z 
Twist or S Twist: Ladies Weaving with Bones".
 
Without giving away all the details, Barbara's study gives a  
well-illustrated explanation of what happens when the thread is taken from the  
ball, 
reel or spool in three different ways -- from the side, from the top, from  the 
bottom.  This is only one of many movements that can change the amount  of 
twist.  
 
What happens to the amount of twist during the process of lacemaking is  
crucial.  S-finished thread will respond quite differently to Z-finished  
thread.  If the process of lacemaking increases the twist, it will  curl up and 
produce harsh or even curly lace.  If it decreases the twist,  the thread 
will unravel, weaken, and even break.
 
Barbara's illustrations of all her studies are very helpful.  
 
Please do not skip over articles about threads.  Please  quality-check what 
you buy very carefully.  The buying power of a great  many lacemakers is 
much diminished now there are fewer of us, meaning quality  can be 
compromised.  We are beginning to suspect that some  employees of thread 
manufacturers 
today do not know the importance of how  thread is spun.  Perhaps they are 
taking shortcuts so large discounters can  undercut our traditional 
suppliers?  Barbara actually found disturbing  inconsistencies in thread, such 
as 
spools where one of several  was spun in the opposite direction!!!  One bad 
batch, or even one spool  amongst a dozen, can really impact a 21st C. 
lacemaker's results.

 
Program Chairmen:  The above information gives you a subject for one  of 
your lace guild meetings.


 
Jeri Ames in  Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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