Dear Lesley and Others Interested in Lace Care,
 
My complete lace washing instructions have been referred to Arachne members 
 numerous times since 1995.  I do not have a Web Site, and the one it was 
on  (Honiton Lace) has been taken down.  Fair notice was given to all to 
print  out my various memos on lace care and put in a book, because when 
something  disastrous happens you need to respond as soon as possible..
 
In this case, I think you need to block the lace to the shape of the  
pattern, though the hot water will have shrunk lace a bit..  It has already  
been 
wet.  Re-rinse it, this time in room temperature distilled water  to get 
out some of the harmful detergent and (probably) minerals in the water  you 
used for your family wash..  
 
Lift out of water to a towel, shape it roughly into a flat  piece, and blot 
excess water out of it.  Put the towel  aside.  Lay lace on a very very 
clean waterproof flat surface and finger  press it into the shape you want, 
referring back to your pattern.  Lace  dries quite quickly, so within hours it 
will be  done.   Finger pressing gives just a limited amount of  heat.  
There is probably some remaining sizing in the thread that should  firm up the 
edge..  
 
If this fails, re-wet with distilled water.  Finger press into shape  on 
top of a acid-free flat piece of white cloth (like a pillow case) that you  
have laid on a ironing board.  Cover with a clean lightweight piece of  white 
fabric, and press.  Use the least amount of heat that will do the  job. 
 
Another thought:  You could very slightly reduce the size of your  pattern 
on a printer.  Cover with a clear waterproof product (I don't know  names in 
your country) -- waterproof so the ink of the copied pattern will not  
migrate into the lace.  Lay it on your lacemaking pillow or a surface you  can 
pin into. Shape the lace on this smaller pattern.  Pin the  lace in strategic 
places to block.  Remove just as soon as it is  dry.  
 
No matter the material the pins are made of, never leave metals in  contact 
with damp or wet lace longer than necessary.   
 
Two bonus tips:  (1) Those of us who learn to conserve laces are  familiar 
with the terrible staining that metal hooks and snaps can make on  fashion 
items put in storage.  Museums have temperature/humidity under  control.   
Private owners think the storage trunk or  drawer will be dry, but there is 
moisture in the air in most countries, and  that can lead to staining from 
metals over a period of time.  (2)  If you have a lace collection, check 
everything at least once a  year.  Pick a day (such as _Lace@Arachne's_ 
(mailto:Lace@Arachne's)  birthday, April 12th) and  put this task on your 
calendar - 
every year.. 
 
Jeri Ames in  Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  

 
In a message dated 4/8/2011 6:11:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
lesley.blacks...@ntlworld.com writes:

The sun  was shining brightly in a blue sky yesterday so I was unusually 
full of  housework enthusiasm.  One of the things I grabbed to go into 
the  wash was one of my cover cloths which was lying on the sideboard.  I  
didn't stop to wonder why it was there but was reminded when I opened  
the washing machine, which had been on a hot wash, to find the pice of  
lace I'd recently finished, apart from sewing in the ends, which I'd  
carefully placed inside a cover cloth to keep it clean.  Yes, THAT  cover 
cloth.  So, I now turn to you, my Arachne friends, to ask, is  all lost?  
Can I save the shrivelled piece of blue fabric that was to  be a table 
mat for my spare bedroom?  I've tried pressing it, but the  corners pull 
out more than the middle so it's somewhat wavy round the  edges and I'm 
at a loss as to whether it is rescuable or whether I should  start again.

In hope,  Lesley

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