Pene
You are right that what most lacemakers think of as Valenciennes didn't exist
in 1453.  LePompe 1559 is the earliest documentation we have for what the
early laces might have looked like.  They were braided/plaited laces (some of
which use 5 hole ground as the crossing for 2 braids), tape lace (Brit. braid
laces), and some which are printed as little diamonds in the woodcut.  These
latter might be interpreted as torchon.  (They might possibly, only possibly,
be an early form of freehand laces.)  What most lacemakers think of as
Valenciennes dates from the latter half of the 19th century, into the 20th
century: a straight lace with a ground made of 4thread braids worked in such a
degree of openness that there aren't enough threads to make good dense
clothwork, so extra threads are usually hung in for the cloth motifs and moved
out of the way at the bottom on the motif.

For some better quality 19th century Valenciennes, see
http://lynxlace.com/bobbinlace19thcstraightmesh.html
Go to the end of the page and look at the last 2 lines of photos.
For some simpler Val, such as might be used on lingerie, see
http://lynxlace.com/bobbinlacerevivalerastraight.html
Go to the middle of the page.  There are some revival era Val and Binche.

For laces from LePompe  (I've worked small samples of a few braided ones), see
http://lynxlace.com/bobbinlace1559to1700.html  The first row are LePompe.  But
the middle of the page has some early Val/Binche from the late 1600s, well
after your story.

Lorelei Halley

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