Now that I've stopped giggling, Robin, would all the holdouts who have  
been reading my warnings from the very beginning of _Arachne_ 
(mailto:Lace@Arachne)  hear loud and  clear:
 
 
Learn how to take care of precious textiles - you'll find many of my  memos 
in our archives:  _http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/index.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/index.html)     A search of 
just my name will bring up over 1,000 entries.  Refine this  by searching 
"Jeri Ames conservation advice", which has about 18  entries.

 
Any suspect washing solution should be tested on a like-textile bit of  
thread or an inconspicuous inside seam allowance of a garment.  If  putting 
even a drop on lace, choose to put it on some thread that has not  been made 
into lace.  On old items, you can often find a thread  somewhere to isolate 
and test.
 
Conservators start with plain distilled water, a drop at a time (or dab  
with a Q-tip - small wand with cotton on both ends - cotton swab that is  sold 
in pharmacies).  If distilled water makes a color bleed, it is  likely that 
all additives to the water will bleed that much, or worse.   For example, I 
tried this method on each thread color in an 1838  embroidered sampler.  
One green dye ran in one part and not in  another!  Perhaps the green threads 
were from two different dye lots that  looked the same when new.  The next 
test is to add some Orvus to  water and test again with the drop method.  
Then, the decision to be  made is whether to wet clean, or not.  This is what a 
responsible  conservator will do -- make sure before taking drastic steps.  
Sometimes  it is best to let well enough alone.
 
If a gentle wash in Orvus (see archive) does not remove a stain, do not  
follow it with a heat treatment of any kind (such as putting in a hot dryer or 
 pressing with a hot iron).  Avoid sun.  If you shouldn't expose your  
complexion to sun, why would you trust your lace to it????  It was an old  
method, discredited by today's museum conservators because today's sun rays  
contain more damaging UV.  Do not take advice from old books and old  cleaning 
recipes.
 
If you want to take further steps, consult a local curator at a  museum 
that has a collection of textiles.  Have a professional  conservator tackle it. 
 (I do not mean a dry cleaning  establishment.)  
 
Not just in this stream of memos, but another recently, I saw specific  
product names given.  The only one I recommend for cotton/linen is Orvus  - a 
Procter & Gamble product available in many parts of the world -  used for wet 
cleaning fine rugs and upholstery by  professionals, for washing sheep and 
other animals that will be displayed at  fairs and the like, and hand 
washing delicate fabrics.  Orvus is the  product that museums use, always in a 
conservative way.  It has just 4  ingredients:  Sodium lauryl sulfate, lauryl 
alcohol, sodium sulfate, and  water.   Incidentally, I call Proctor & Gamble 
every few years  to reconfirm that the ingredients have not changed!     
 
All these different manufacturers with their high-blown  advertising claims 
are free to change formulas at any time.  They  also have not stood the 
test of time --- old containers of cleaning  solutions may chemically change 
over time.  Museums have sorted this  out and recommend Orvus.
 
Orvus used to be hard to find in shops women  frequent.  Quilting shop 
owners now often make  up small bottles for sale (from the big industrial-size 
container it  comes in).  If you are located in a farming area, tack shops 
(shops  where animal supplies are sold) often carry this product.  You could  
get a group of ladies together and buy the large container and re-bottle  it.
 
Please use some common sense.  No perfumes which may discolor over  time.  
No lanolin (leaves residue behind that microcosms like to  eat).  
Colorant/Pigment/Dye(s) - come on, whom are we  kidding????? -- memo below of 
one 
product's claims!
 
Always remember that whatever liquid cocktail you put your textile  into, 
not all of it will ever be rinsed out.  It stays in  fibers.  Forever.
 
It just reached midnight in Maine.  Happy New Year to all our  lace lovers. 
   
 
Jeri Ames  in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
 
------------------------------------------------------------
 
12/31/2011 4:04:18 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [email protected]  
writes:

------ Jean Nathan <[email protected]>  wrote:
What is particular about Cheer that it will avoid  bleeding?

Cheer brand laundry detergent makes the claim and (I  assume) Sue has tried 
it if she endorses it.  I'm sure whatever allows  the company to make this 
claim is part of its proprietary formulation and we  may never know what it 
is.  We also won't know if/when they decide to  change it, which is why I'm 
sure it won't get an endorsement from Arachnean  textile watchdog, Jeri 
Ames.  Even if it's been tested for safety and  effectiveness by professional 
textile conservators (unlikely), there's no  knowing how long it will remain 
safe and/or effective.

[I'm really  not calling you a dog, Jeri, honest!  But you're the one with 
the most  conservation knowledge on the list and the one that usually has to 
reiterate  your warnings.]

Robin P.
---------------------------------------------
 
Cheer brand detergent contains: Fragrance(s)/perfume(s),  Color
protection/processing agent,  Color safe oxygen bleach (sodium  perborate
and bleach activator),Sodium sulfate  anhydrous,Cleaning
agent(s),Colorant/Pigment/Dye(s),Fabric whitening  agent(s),Sodium silicates
(unspecified), Soil suspending agent(s), Water  softeners (complex sodium
phosphates/sodium carbonate)

Could be  the sodium perborate prevents colour bleeding.

Bev in Shirley BC  Canada

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