Dear Bev et al, Thanks for your response. I mean the pairs leaving a cloth stitch motif. I don't know what Barbara Corbet calls it, I looked through the instructions briefly and went on to the colored charts, which doesn't use words. Bad on names at the best of times. I must admit, I like the pin between the two pairs very much as a pin seems to me much more reliable than a plait. I can always be wrong, and I suspect this is largely a matter of preference, and who taught you in which lace. I believe throwing out pairs is more a Withof/Honiton sort of thing. Flanders is far too oriented toward a laundry to permit anything like that. My handkerchief and I will have a lengthy time with lassen once it's done,not only in attaching the beginning to the end, but also securely anchoring all the gimp, even those silly little 1/8 inch diameter circles, as I intend to use it and wash it. I like to use my lace. Wear it, hang it up as a curtain, set it on a tea table, even cover a milk pitcher with it. Use it as a label. I am not drawn by nature to lace that gets put in a frame.
Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, where it's too windy to spray weeds. -----Original Message----- From: bev walker Sent: May 10, 2012 12:31 PM To: Lyn Bailey Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [lace] tensioning Flanders Hello Lyn and everyone I think you've made a good start on the list of rules or tendencies ;) I would say 'almost always' two pair between pins at the ring pair business around a motif - as soon as one says 'always' up pops an exception. I soon learned this one by experience: "Count your pairs carefully, you'll find mistakes sooner" and/or prevent them! When you say decreases, you do mean as pairs leave a motif (e.g. as the motif narrows) to enter the ground? But not throwing out of pairs. Is that the term Barbara uses? I think of the narrowing as taking the two passive pairs nearest the inside border pair of the motif, pinch these pairs in CTC and first work the one that is outgoing, then move the new weaver across the row to its destination. Then tension both pairs in their new positions. On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 5:29 AM, Lyn Bailey <[email protected]></sp an> wrote: there. The only criticism I have of the book is that I think there needs to be a set of written rules for Flanders, like virtually always 2 pair between pins, count your pairs carefully, you'll find mistakes sooner. Lift the left over gimp, that sort of thing. Flanders is such a regulated lace, so sensible, when you need a pin, you find the hole for it right there to pull against. Except for decreases. Learning rules is ultimately a good thing for lace, and I think a page of such rules would go a long way to help lacemakers who carry on without teachers. But I donât know of any books offhand that have such a thing. -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada "My email sends out an automatic message. Arachne members, please ignore it. I read your emails." - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]. Photo site: http://community.webshots.com/user/arachne2003/albums/most-recent
