Dear Leonard, et al

  I have almost finished the first learner piece.  If you look at the
  pattern, http://www.svenskaspetsar.se/sv/article/928/kors_langd and
  enlarge that tiny thumbnail, you will see that there is a section of
  clothstitch between the squares that goes the entire width of the
  lace.  I figure if I lay in a new worker thread in that area, the
  whole width of the lace, few if any will be able to see that there
  are 9 threads instead of 8.  I am going to make my second learner
  piece, this time with the thread I intend to use, and I'll be trying
  a couple different methods of adding, passives and workers.  I think
  a lot can be done with that area between the squares to take care of
  thread replacement. 

  Thank you so much for the time you took to share your expertise, as
  with all the other people who were willing to help. 

  Lyn in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA where we're expecting a band of
  rain, but it has also been cool enough to work outside without
  dehydrating.  Garage.  After it's done, I get a new kitchen.

    Leonard wrote:  Russian tape, 18/3 linen, so I continually need
    to replenish bobbins.  I've found that in this very thick thread,
    the bump from exchanging a passive and worker is annoyingly
    visible.  Usually it's a worker that needs changing, so I just
    knot on a fully-wound bobbin to the end, and the use another
    fully wound bobbin, thread secured on a pin,  with it, just
    before the knot, for one row only; that line of weaving has three
    wefts instead of two, and it really does not show.  Continue with
    the second bobbin, throw out the first, to be used to replace the
    next worker that runs out.  Provided I don't cut the ends until
    I'm well past the change, it is very secure.  The passives are
    obviously done the same - run an extra new thread by the old one
    for a few rows, fewer than you think provided you don't cut or
    pull too soon.  On tape, I try to do this on a sharp curve, when
    very little is needed to secure it and it does not show; not so
    easy in torchon, which is more even-weave, but there I should do
    what I do in Bucks sometimes, keep the extra passive in for the
    whole of a small motif, and it would take the maker's eye to see
    it!  If you are working a very large piece, the sooner the need
    to fill bobbins and get rid of knots is accepted, the easier it
    becomes; after a bit, it relieves the boredom, and then it
    becomes almost automatic - like planning the end of a line of
    typing on a manual machine when the bell rang!
    [email protected]</zzzb ody></leonardkvb@ yahoo.com>

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