Again, I've seen no review of a new book by Gilian Dye - this one is "The  
Isham Samples and Other Linen Edgings - 16th & 17th Century Lace - Book 2",  
published by Cleveden Press, Nov. 2012, ISBN 978-0-9553223-4-1, 60 pages, 
soft  cover, amply illustrated in color and in black & white.
 
Attention costumers, historians, SCA members, and those interested in  
making laces seen in early portraits, garments and furnishings in museums!   
The 
narrow laces in this new book have been worked in linen,  cotton or wool 
and are taken from original sources - portraits and the few  surviving laces 
of this period.  Gil Dye has photographed them  and then done 
reconstructions, each with a working diagram and a photo  and pattern draft at 
actual size. 
 
 
The author postulates that 16th & 17th C. lace makers worked most  narrow 
laces without a pricking or instructions, and gives helpful  suggestions for 
you to do likewise.  Today, we call this free  hand lace.  She describes the 
lock stitch that helps to control tension and  minimizes the need for pins 
- a very good solution to problems of copying very  old laces using a 
variety of thread sizes - without prickings.  Very  few pins would have been 
used.
 
The title mentions Isham samples.  These were five narrow lace  samples 
attached to a letter written by Elizabeth Isham about 1627 to her  father.  
This Elizabeth was born in 1608 or 1609, five-to-six years  after the death of 
Queen Elizabeth I.  There is a nice little biography of  Elizabeth, and a 
photograph of the Isham jacket that is in the V & A  collection.  It reminds 
of the circa 1610-20 Margaret Laton jacket, though  clearly not as lavish.  
There is a pattern and instructions for the black  and white lace edging on 
the Isham jacket.
 
(The Fall 2012 issue of the IOLI's Bulletin has a 5-page article  about 
Isham laces, by Rosemary Shepherd, if more information is desired.)
 
Gil Dye has been writing useful books and lessons for lace  makers since at 
least 1979.  There are 12 titles in my library, and  that would not be all 
of them.  She is also a generous contributor to  various lace guild 
bulletins.
 
In recent years, she has set herself the challenge of writing books and  
presenting patterns of the 16th and 17th centuries.   The  first was the 
well-received 64-page "Elizabethan Lace" of 1995, which has  been republished 
by 
Cleveden Press.  In May 2012, I wrote a review of "Gold  and Silver Edgings 
- 16th & 17th Century Lace - Book 1".  Search "Gil  Dye books" in the 
Arachne archives:
 
_http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html_ 
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html)   

The current review is of the second in a series.  The  author is now 
working samples for Book 3.
 
The following list of specialist lace book suppliers may be  helpful:   
 
England - Jo Firth, SMP, Roseground, and Claire's Lace
Germany - Barbara Fay
USA - Maria Provencher and Holly Van Sciver 
 

Jeri Ames in  Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource  Center

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