Ahah! That explains it. Old bobbins were made of green wood, which will warp more readily than properly seasoned wood. So regardless of the tensioning, or the thickness of the thread which will influence the amount of tug on the bobbin when tensioning, the real criteria is the seasoning of the wood, and somewhere I got at least two that needed more seasoning. There we are. Thanks Clay!. lrb
> >The main reason that wood warps after it has been worked is that it was not >adequately seasoned before it was worked. And for woodworking, it is usually >kiln-dried, which involves stacking in criss-cross fashion. For furniture, >this is not usually an issue, but for things as small as bobbins, I suspect a >patch of that less-cured wood could easily warp. The older bobbins were >frequently warped, because they were made from green wood! > "My email sends out an automatic message. Arachne members, please ignore it. I read your emails." - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
