>From time-to-time, the subject of the early  20th century Needle and Bobbin 
Club lace collectors arises.   There happens to be quite a bit of 
documentation in my library about them,  because Frances Morris and Marian 
Hague 
wrote a wonderful book "Antique  Laces of American Collectors", published in 
the 
1920's for The Needle and  Bobbin Club.  It is a "lace bible" to American 
lace researchers,  because nearly all the laces eventually were donated to 
The Metropolitan Museum  of Art and other American museums.
 
Imagine my surprise to come across references to Frances Morris in the  
2013 "Interwoven Globe" exhibition catalogue.  There is even a picture  of her 
on page 6!
 
We learn that a 1927 exhibit "Painted and Printed Fabrics", containing  392 
objects, was the brainchild of the museum's first curator of  textiles, 
Frances Morris (1866-1955).  She began her association with the  museum in 
1896, cataloguing a collection of musical instruments.  In 1905  she was asked 
to organize the cataloguing of the lace collection, the first  textile 
collection of importance at the museum. 
 
By 1910, she was promoted to assistant curator, in charge of the  new 
Textile Study Room.  Here, designers and students could study and  be inspired 
by 
almost 9,000 textiles.  She was also responsible for  displays in 3 
adjoining galleries.  By 1923, the textile holdings  numbered 12,000.  From 
1910 
until she left the museum in 1929, she  oversaw the collections of textiles 
and musical instruments.
 
For the 1927 exhibition, Morris borrowed textiles from museums and  
collections around the United States and England, so that when the exhibit  
opened 
there were examples from most European countries, including Russia, as  well 
as Armenia, India, Java, and Peru.  In this way, she was able  to impact 
the understanding that textile design was influenced  by various nations.  
Text in the catalogue admits  (page 5) that the 2013 "Interwoven Globe" 
exhibition, which  required contributions from 7 different museum departments 
and a 
huge team  of curators and scholars, stood on the shoulders of this one 
woman!   
 
In Notes at the back of the catalogue, we read (10) "Morris was one of the  
first two women with curatorial titles at the Metropolitan Museum....After  
eleven years as an assistant curator, Morris was made an associate curator 
in  1921; in 1929 she asked to be promoted to full curator.....The 
administration  gave her a raise of $500, bringing her salary to $6,000 per 
year, but 
 refused to promote her.  A few months later she resigned to go on an  
extended tour of the Far East.  Though she never returned to the Museum,  she 
continued as an active force in the textile world, including as a founder of  
The Needle and Bobbin Club, among other projects."
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  .  

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