Dear Sue M,
 
Where are you located?  We keep asking, because  correspondents fail to 
give us an idea of the country in which they  live.  It becomes relevant when 
someone tries to be of help.  A search  (extra time for us to do) for your 
business brought up Indiana, U.S.A.  Is  this correct? 
 
My lace and embroidery library has some linen industry books that may be  
interesting to read (a sort of bibliography for your studies).  I did not  
disclose all in my memo of October 17th, but have not neglected collecting 
books  about the fibers used to make lace and embroidery.  Because the lace  
and embroidery organizations to which we belong rarely collect for  their 
lending libraries beyond the subjects of embroidery and lace, my  collecting 
focus was expanded to include "Other Related Subjects" (about  1,000 volumes).  
 
You might like to read a report from Denmark:
 
http://ribevikingecenter.dk/media/10424/Flaxreport.pdf 
 
This was so informative - about experiments with flax - that I bought  a 
one-inch deep looseleaf binder and made a permanent book for the  library.  
There is a long list of references given, and the book prints to  86 pages.
 
If you'd like to learn about the Belgian flax history, it is  doubtful 
there is anything better than the Bert DeWilde book:  "Flax  in Flanders 
Throughout the Centuries - History..Technical  Evolution..Folklore".  The 
National 
Museum of Linen and Lace Museum in  Kortrijk (Courtrai, in French) will 
probably be on the lace tour  in 2018, sponsored by the Belgian Lace Group.  My 
 
Goo...Search came up with an address that showed architectural buildings in 
 Belgium.  Perhaps an Arachne member in Belgium can supply an  address 
where we can at least read in English about the National Flax  and Lace 
Museum?? 
 If they do not have a web site, let us ask Santa Claus  for someone to 
volunteer!
 
A variety of museum references is at this private  (non-commercial) site, 
though you may have to search for their web  sites:
 
https://www.linenme.com/news/flax-linen-museums/ 
 
Your thesis subject reminds of the extensive work Gil Dye has done to  
replicate early laces from visually studying lace details on early  portraits.  
I hope you have tried to use her bobbin lace instructions  to make samples.  
You mention metal-wrapped threads, which reminded of Lena  Dahren's  2010 
271 pg. Uppsala University thesis (Swedish language,  with English summary) 
"Med Kant av Guld Och Silver 1550-1640" (Metal Lace of  Gold and Silver) 
978-91-628-8196-2, $80.  Dahren speaks English and is a  very approachable 
OIDFA 
member.  The International Organization of Lace in  the U.S. does not have 
in their library.  Perhaps a local lace group would  have it, or you could 
try InterLibrary Loan  
 
See?  That is why we need to know where you are located when you write  to 
Arachne!!!  
 
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
--------------------------------------------------------
 
 
In a message dated 10/21/2016 8:42:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:

The  process being proposed by Brenda Paternoster is exactly what I have 
been doing  for six years. Yearly, I grow a small plot, harvest, rett, break 
once my  husband finishes building a new break.  What is easiest at home is 
to  harvest exactly when ripe. I have read that slightly 'green' flax stalks 
may  produce finest threads.  I have a select bunch to test this idea. One  
issue about saving seed and replanting is that flax must be harvested before 
 the seed heads burst otherwise the fiber strands become overripe and  
unusable.  Hear that the seeds available at harvest are too immature to  
germinate. I believe back in the day they would have let  some flax to  fully 
mature ( over ripen) just for seed. 

Really, even if the finest  flax plants were developed, commercial 
processing is virtually non existent.  Hand processing (not even up to spinning 
yet) 
would be impractical and  expensive. Add a cottage handspinner and no one 
could afford the thread.   I am in the process of spinning small batches for 
early bobbin lace thesis.  Spinning is tedious, messy, dirty. Then threads 
need to be plied and then  boiled to clean and soften. I thrash to break down 
the fibers to make them  smoother, lustrous and not as stiff. Good news is 
that a little goes a long  way. 

I am planning on blogging the process as I work on my thesis.  Technically, 
the thesis includes replicating metal wrapped threads but linen  thread is 
also being required. Spinning is the easy part, making lace samples  in 
triplicate will be my challenge as a novice. 

Sue M.  

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