In relation to what Alex was saying about Mechlin and what it meant in the
18th century, I think that Santina Levey says fairly early in her book that
most of the terms we use now were coined by lace dealers in the late 19th and
early 20th century, and would be unrecognizable to people in the era when the
lace was made.
If memory serves, a particularly egregious example was calling a lace Binche
because a piece resembling it had been found on a carnival costume in Binche,
although the lace was never made there. Another example is dubbing things
Cluny after a piece found in the Cluny museum in Paris.
But, of course, it is the language being  used in the late 19th and early 20th
century by dealers and auctioneers that has found its way into the catalogue
system.
I have been consulting a number of books. Levey, of course, Toomer, Antique
Laces, Identifying types and Techniques, Gwynne’s the Illustrated Dictionary
of Lace, Kurella’s Guide to Lace and Linens, and Pat Earnshaw’s three
books, the Dictionary of Lace, the Identification of Lace and Bobbin and
Needle laces Identification and Care. Interestingly, Pat Earnshaw’s books
are not necessarily consistent. But, that serves as a powerful reminder that
whenever you write something and publish it, you immediately find out  you
were wrong about something.
I also have a dictionary  by J. Coene called Kantlexicon. In addition, I have
my vast library of books on individual laces. One thing that has been a
pleasant surprise is that it is sometimes quite easy to search the older books
on google books using a word search.
Does anyone have other suggestions for good ID books?
Devon


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