----Original message from Devon
Subject : RE: [lace] contemporary needle lace


I have been fortunate to convince Ros Hills to loan to the exhibit two works.
One is  I am woman, which can be seen on p. 120 of the book  Merehurst
Embroidery Skills Needlelace, by Pat Earnshaw. 
Devon

Dear Spiders

I should like to dispel any misconception that some might have about my 
aversion to coloured Contemporary needlelace, as opposed to fine white 
Traditional needelace.

If you have a copy of my book 'Needlelce Designs & Techniques Classic & 
CONTEMPORARY' on your bookshelves or can borrow one from somewhere, the very 
first piece of my work you will see is the COLOURED 3-D strawberries on the 
front cover, which was designed and worked by me in 1989, not a piece of fine 
white Traditional needlelace.  These strawberries also appear in Jill Nordford 
Clark's book 'Needlelace Techniques & Inspiration published a decade later in 
1999.  Then there are the 3-D Pea Pods with admittedly a fine white 3-D 
butterfly on page 143 - also in the same book by Pat Earnshaw, as Ros Hills' 'I 
Am Woman' pub by Merehurst as part of their EMBROIDERY SKILLS series.  Ros 
herself says and I quote        

'The actual working of the needlace fabric I find tedious and exacting, but to 
take a single thread and create with it a fabric, will always fascinate me 
..........'

 She does not describe this work as LACE but uses the word FABRIC twice in her 
description.  In that very same book on page 109 you will see 'Garden Gate' by 
Nenia Lovesey (whch I am the proud owner of), page 110 'Pea Pods' by Catherine 
Barley, 'Brighton Pavilion' by Ann Collier, page 114 'Samurai Two' by Barbara 
Hirst, and page 120 'I Am Woman' by Ros Hills and all are worked using 
needlelace techniques but I would not classify them as 'LACE' in the strict 
sense of the word as I understand - I include myself of course in my 
observations, but would describe them as being worked in a Contemporary STYLE 
rather than a Traditional LACE.  On page 59 of Virginia Churchill Bath's book 
'LACE' is the wonderful 'Judgement of Solomon' panel from the V & A - now that 
is needlelace in all it's glory!  I saw this panel at the V & A way back in the 
early 80's when one didn't need to make an appointment for a 1 hour slot and 
inform them of the pieces you would like to see, but in the days w!
 here all the lace was in a separate section with doors that could be locked 
when necessary and open every day of the week, to browse through the pull out 
panels at leisure and stay as long as one liked, just drooling over all the 
wonderful laces.

Going back to my own book you will see on pages 114/115 the stumpwork wedding 
scene where all the clothing is worked in coloured needlelace, but of course 
the bride's dress, as one would expect, is fine white 'lacey' needlelace, all 
worked in 1989.  Page 27 shows an adaptation of a Dover design, worked in 
Venetian Gros Point techniques, and this was worked in 1983 - 35years ago!  I 
too took some criticism for having dared to introduce a small amount of pink 
coloured silk thread into my interpretation!

If you go to my website and scroll down to 'Venetian Gros Point' you will see a 
black chiffon jacket with COLOURED needlelace petals (beads too!) applied to 
the painted flowers on the fabric, also an evening bag worked in various shades 
of pink/ecru, again worked over 30 years ago in the 1980's.  Take a look also 
at the stumpwork 3-D section where you will see quite a few projects worked in 
coloured thread and solid corded Brussels.  Move on to the bobbin Lace section 
and see the 3-D Bobbin lace detachable pockets worked in gold metallic thread 
and worked in the late 1970's - almost 40 years ago, when I knew absolutely 
nothing about Needlelce!  I think I hardly fit the description of 'living in 
the past'!

When commissioned by Batsford to write my book, I gave a great deal of thought 
as to it's content and didn't want it to be full of the work of others, but 
something different.  Some may feel that Venetian Gros Point would be far too 
difficult as a first project, but corded Brussels is by far the easiest/most 
simple stitch to work, as it has a cord to support it, whereas the more open 
'lacey' stitches are far more difficult to control, as no doubt many of you 
will have discovered for yourselves.  This book is progressive with each new 
project reinforcing techniques mastered in the previous one, whilst progressing 
to a new technique in addition.  Finally, having learnt the traditional 
techniques with the TWISTED buttonhole stitch in Hollie Point, then the more 
open filling stiches and grid fillings in Point de Gaze, the book moves on to 
the CONTEMPORARY projects that utilise the TRADITIONAL techniques learnt 
previously.

I am open minded and very receptive to Contemporary Needlelace but equally 
concerned that the Traditional techniques are being overlooked by many and in 
great danger of disappearing into obscurity.  I think my question 'Is there 
anyone out there who teaches/works fine white traditional needlelace?' has now 
been answered and that are a small handful as opposed to many who make/teach 
the coloured contemporary lace.  The few who make/teach the fine white 
traditional needlelaces all seem to come from overseas but none from the UK 
have been brought to my attention.

Catherine Barley


Catherine Barley Needlelace
www.catherinebarley.com

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