(A bit long................please disregard if not interested.)

Well, we went to Istanbul.

First of all, thanks to all the people who gave me advice on and offlist
about our trip. It was much appreciated and very useful.

As I did mention in an earlier post, I was pretty reluctant to go and even
though I had promised to go with an open mind, I was still a bit negative
when we arrived. This feeling persisted for the first day and a half, but I
was soon won over by the astonishing beauty of the city and also the
unrelenting friendliness of the people.

Apart from the obvious reason, I was also down on the place because I love
Greece so much, and I was cross with it for being so like Greece but not
having ouzo or xoriatiki salads. When I found that cafes in Istanbul also
had tavla (backgammon) boards, and also discovered raki, my outlook
improved enormously.

I was quite determined to answer the many people who asked where I was from
by saying "England.......well, Leeds actually." I was expecting looks of
sheepish guilt, but was met every time by cheerful faces. Some people even
replied "Ah. Leeds United!" without any hint of concern. I fear that the
murders are long forgotten over there now.

I wasn't spending much time on the internet, but the Cellino appeal
decision was due any time, so I did have to check Newsnow every
day..............and that was where I discovered that it was actually the
14th anniversary of Chris's & Kevin's deaths while we were there. I really
should I suppose have gone up to Taksim Square that day (even though I
don't really believe in that kind of nonsense), but I didn't find out until
too late in the evening.

We did make our way over there the next day though, and it was a pretty
horrible experience.

It turned out that G***tasaray were playing Fenerbahce that day. All
morning, the city had been full of those horrible faux-Bradford City
shirts, but when we got to the Square the place was seething with them. It
seems that it is a tradition for their fans to congregate in Taksim Square
before marching en masse to the stadium. I hope that that is a
long-standing tradition and not something which has developed in the last
14 years. Whatever the case, it was extremely unpleasant to see that
particular place full of those particular fans...............especially
when I saw that several of the more "hard-core" nutters were strutting
around covered in fake blood. Again, I hope that, as unsavoury as that is,
it is a tradition that dates back to long before April 5th 2000.


Normally, I would have reveled in the experience of savouring the
atmosphere of a frenzied local derby in a foreign capital (as I have in the
past with, eg Al Ahli v Zamalek in Cairo, or PAOK v Aris in Thessaloniki),
but not surprisingly I did not enjoy this one.

I did consider trying to get my wife and daughter, who were with me, to
join me in a defiant burst of "We are Leeds." But I didn't consider it for
long.

Apart from that afternoon, though, we had nothing but splendid experiences
and met nothing but wonderful people in Turkey.
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John 'Grampa' Sykes
Rest In Peace old lad
28th Oct 1938 - 12 Nov 2013
MARCHING ON TOGETHER

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