Yes I know barbed wire my property is surrounded by it I was just wondering if 
bob wire was a special sort .

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of MWF
Sent: Monday, 19 September 2016 4:50 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: Some Ideas - Barbed Wire

 

Bill,

That's a sort of "joke" - it's how a Texan (person living in Texas) would 
"pronounce" the term "barbed wire".  

Barbed wire is a strand-style fencing wire used to keep the animal(s) from 
trying to get out of the fenced in area. It is essentially two strong wires 
twisted around each other with short pieces of wire inserted in between the 
strands every 2 - 4 inches.  These short pieces stick out from the main strand 
about an inch and their tips are sharp - so they deliver pain if the animal 
presses up against it.

Have a Wonderful week.

Mac

  _____  

  _____  

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bill Bulkeley 
Sent: Sep 18, 2016 11:11 PM 
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
Subject: RE: Some Ideas 




Texan "bob war"?

Bill

 

From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of MAX LATHAM
Sent: Monday, 19 September 2016 12:56 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Some Ideas

 

OK, Curt, as you can see, the stump has been reduced in order to fit onto the 
saw carriage. Also, notice a square hole. Therein lies a problem, barbed wire 
(Texan "bob war") is present indicating a crosscut avoiding the wire thus 
creating material for bowls, carving etc. The remainder is to be plain sawed 
with 1" at the top and bottom and a series  of cuts from 2" to 4" and allowing 
columns, flat slabs to bowls etc. The crotch is to be sized for the saw 
carriage by reducing the long leg and also a cross cut to remove yet another 
piece of wire then flat sawing what's left in varying thicknesses, mostly for 
surfaces, tops, drawers etc.

 

Reason for only 2 pics; IT wouldn't load anymore GBs.

 

The remainder of the tree is to be turned into a live edged kitchen table with 
crotch for legs and whatever.

max

 


  _____  


From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com 
<legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> on behalf of CURTIS GEORGE 
<curtgeo...@wowway.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 8:21 PM
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Some Ideas 

 

Hey Max.

I can only see two pictures. That stump looks very nice, any idea on how you 
will cut it?

 

C.A.G.

 


  _____  


From: "MAX LATHAM" <ma...@hotmail.com>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2016 8:43:12 PM
Subject: Fw: Some Ideas

 

 

 

I, too, am a scrounger with a barn full of wonderful projects.

And as far as sealing the log end, I can't afford that much lacquer thinner for 
ends .... so, I frequent the paint/hardware stores for  "mis-match" and if it 
cost more then $5/gallon, I just wait. I use latex paint and find it to work 
well to prevent/ lessen checking.

Most recent is a pecan stump/root which is spalted (I think). Should make come 
fine saw dust!

(the third pic is a work in progress, influenced by this discussion 
group--thanks)

(Now I've a little else to the mix)

max 

 

Ccan find, Ive found some very nice looking woods doing this, Like mallbeary, 
smoketree, and ficus trees all have unique quality's that you will not find 
elsewhere.

 

Many trees are not cut into lumber mainly due to the trees normally do not grow 
into a size that makes it profitable to cut into lumber. but this dose not mean 
these trees have nothing to offer to you and me.

Now cutting your own lumber can be a slow process. as a general rule of thumb, 
1" of thickness per year of drying.

The ends of the wood must be sealed as quickly as you can, to keep the moisture 
inside that tree, if the ends are not sealed the water will excape quickly 
causing cracking,making the wood less usable as it would be if dried properly.

I found this video on you-tube that I like.  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6QsqAWf6hE He makes his own sealer, I often 
use wax or old paint to seal the ends. His method is neat and cheaper than 
anything that Ive done in the past. Ive not done his method yet but I do plan 
to try it soon.

 

 

Now another train of thought on drying wood is, dry only what you need, Bowl 
turners use this method a lot. they cut the wood into a usable bowl while green 
and then let it dry out, and later going back to finish out the blank once its 
dry.

 

Art and I got into a debate a number of years ago on the topic of using PEG. 
(polyethylene glycerol.) His thinking was to dry out lumber, mine idea was to 
dry out a idiom after cutting.

 

Any How. I tell everyone to use Cheap stuff for play time. (go out to the fire 
wood pile for proto. typing/ play.) when I want to try a new idea out, Why 
waist good wood, that cost you money? I personally go for the free stuff. Fire 
wood, pallet wood, old furniture that I find in the garbage... to make saw dust 
that I so greatly look forward to making. ;-p

 

Just something to think about.

I hope everyone has a good weekend.

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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