Max - other buyers asking -please make contact - chas7...@att.net

On Mon, Aug 27, 2018 at 6:33 PM 4 Jim Carpenter <carpenter.62...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> mail box full - buyers making offers - 314-359-6064 Ron for Jim
> gears/indexes ?
>
> On Tue, Aug 14, 2018 at 1:12 AM MWF <mwfos...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello Tracy,
>>
>> Thanks for the "intro".  You have come to the right place to get help and
>> to share your skills & knowledge.
>> If you provide us with the city/community where you live - you may find
>> there is a Group Member within a reasonable drive distance.
>>
>> You mentioned you may be turning the balusters on your Mill.  Give
>> thought to turning half with a clock-wise spiral and the other half with a
>> counter clock-wise spiral.  Then, when assembling each railing section
>> install clock-wise balusters on one half and counter clock-wise ones on the
>> the other half.  If you space them such that you have an odd number of them
>> on the railing you can make the center baluster a non-spiral - perhaps a
>> fluted or a simple tapered one.  Regarding the spacing between balusters,
>> keep in mind that most building codes require any "opening" (gap/spacing)
>> between balusters not exceed (or be less than) 4.0 inches.  For what it's
>> worth, there is no need for your balusters to be 4x4" stock (that's huge).
>> Most deck/proch/gazebo railings I encounter are the "standard" 2"x2" (or 1
>> 1/2" x 1 1/2").  Using the smaller size should save you a fair bit of cash
>> as well as being much easier to handle/install.
>>
>> Welcome to The Group.
>> Mac
>> ------------------------------
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Tracy Smith
>> Sent: Aug 13, 2018 9:17 PM
>> To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>> Subject: Re: New Members and Moderation
>>
>> Thanks again everyone for the quick responses.  Just based on this
>> feedback, I think I need to correct a few things: slow down my router,
>> sharpen/clean more often, and be more patient in my cutting.  There have
>> been times when I'm definitely too aggressive.
>>
>> My gazebo project came about because I bought the LOM.  I like to build
>> stuff and the LOM gave me an opportunity to learn the tool and figure out
>> how to do something I don't know now.  My plan is for a 14.5' gazebo with
>> 1.5 overhang with a double roof.  I've attached a couple of my inspiration
>> pictures.  The side rails will be basically 6' or the distance between
>> centers of the posts will be 6'.  The side rail design was simply me
>> looking at a bunch of different gazebos, drawing out variations of what I
>> liked and asking my wife what she liked.  I've attached that drawing to see
>> the variations I was thinking about doing.  We've decided on the bottom
>> right rail.  The bottom support beam is a bit thicker and we both liked the
>> supporting center baluster.  The balusters are also spaced a bit further
>> apart.  The center baluster will be a transition baluster since there are
>> 4-5 different designs for the major posts.  The balusters are smaller
>> versions of the 6x6 posts.  All the balusters are from 4x4 redwood.  The
>> top of the side rails will be a two pieces of 2x6 redwood fastened together
>> to hold the balusters with some router or mill magic on them.  Nothing
>> special but it should look nice.  Since I am using different styles of
>> balusters, I really don't know how it will turn out.  It will either be
>> beautiful or a bit of a visual nightmare.  Oh well.  I'll have fun building
>> it.
>>
>> Last year I built a pergola just off my shop.  I worked on the design for
>> about 3 months off and on.  When I finally decided what I was going to do,
>> I bought "a pile of wood" and it took about 2 months to complete it.  I
>> really like how it turned out.  The last picture is the pergola.
>>
>> I've watched many of the Legacy how to videos and wanted a project to
>> learn how to do it.  I actually live pretty close to where they manufacture
>> their CNCs.  Great people and it is pretty cool to meet the people in the
>> videos.  Since I still feel like I'm hacking my way through things, I am by
>> no stretch an expert.  The rope twist is from a 2" bit with a 6" pitch.
>> The barley twist is a 2" bit with a single start.  The flute I kind of just
>> did what I thought looked nice.  I think it was a 1/2 inch core box using 6
>> equally spaced index positions.
>>
>> The 1500EXL worked great but was missing most of the gears.  I did buy a
>> new .25 gear set but instead of buying some of the few new replacement
>> parts, I've acquired a few machines that had the pieced I wanted and have a
>> bit of a collection now.  I do really enjoy working on this machine and I
>> want to learn how to do all it is capable of. I just wish I had a lot more
>> time for it.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>> Tracy
>> ------------------------------
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 5:24 PM, Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I find that a difficult question to answer how often to hone the bit ?,
>>> depends on what wood your cutting how fast your running the bit how fast a
>>> feed rate your routing how deep a cut and how it’s cutting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On the rope spiral in your pic with a 2 inch  rope bit cutting hardwood
>>> I would take 2 passes on each spiral one rougher and one finisher and I
>>> most likely run the bit a little slower rpm and feed than recommended
>>> because its hard wood. but it also depends on vibration too I vary both
>>> feed and speed slightly till I get a nice smooth finish and vibration free
>>> cut.
>>>
>>> I would expect to cut 3 or 4 posts perhaps more before giving the bit a
>>> bit of a hone to touch it up
>>>
>>> This is just my opinion others may have different ideas but as I said
>>> depends on the wood and all of the above.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> speed on different dia bits defiantly matters if you ran a 3 inch bit
>>> say at full speed of your router it would be a dangerous and vibration
>>> would be a problem too and could lead to catastrophic failure of your work
>>> and damage the bit. So try to use the rpm guide for router bit dia it will
>>> help the life of the bit too.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Please correct me any one out in the group if you disagree all this is
>>> just  my opinion
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Very nice posts by the way thank you for posting the pics of them,
>>> perhaps you could add some details for us like what pitch you used number
>>> of starts which cutter, number of flutes and so on. Here on the group we
>>> are always interested in work done on the LOM and how it was done no matter
>>> what it is right guys?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tracy Smith
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, 14 August 2018 12:37 AM
>>> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: New Members and Moderation
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thank you for the quick replies.  Attached are the three styles of
>>> balusters I've made so far.  These are for the side rails of the Gazebo.
>>> I'll have 4-5 styles in all when I'm done.  This year I'm just creating the
>>> Gazebo kit.  There are about 70 in total.  I won't actually build the
>>> Gazebo until next year.  I'm more of an outside builder with wood then a
>>> real carpenter.  Not comfortable at all doing nice furniture and finish
>>> work - yet.  But I'm pretty comfortable building stuff outside.  Last year
>>> I built a large Pergola outside my shop.  This was done before I purchased
>>> my LOM.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Regarding the sharpening of the bits, I've watched several videos and
>>> feel like I'm doing what has been instructed.  However, with the Rope Twist
>>> bit in particular, it just looks like it is not a nice finished touch.  I'm
>>> currently doing all my work with Redwood.  How much use of a bit do you
>>> typically do before you clean and/or sharpen it?  I don't have any baseline
>>> on what I should expect.  I also have not paid much attention to the router
>>> speed so maybe that is contributing to my problems.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Tracy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Here is what I have from the old legacy site before it was taken down on
>>> router bit storage, sharpening and use of router bits for the LOM I follow
>>> this or get them professedly sharpened if chipped or just replace them if
>>> too badly damaged .
>>>
>>> Can you post some pictures of your balusters and posts you did on the
>>> LOM we always like to see any projects members do on their mills.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Welcome to the group
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tracy Smith
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, 12 August 2018 10:23 AM
>>> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
>>> *Subject:* Re: New Members and Moderation
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello group,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> My name is Tracy.  I live just south of Salt Lake City, Utah.  This last
>>> year I finally finished a real shop in my back yard.  As I was tooling out
>>> the shop, I came across a Legacy Ornamental Mill.  Never seen or heard of
>>> them before.  I saw a few being sold in my area and in January of this year
>>> I got a 1500EXL.  I've loved figuring it out.  I'm building a large Gazebo
>>> in my back yard and making all the balusters and posts using the LOM.  It's
>>> easily the funnest tool I've used.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The one question I have from those experienced is what is the secret
>>> with keeping the bits sharp?  I've purchased a number of bits from
>>> Magnate.  I have a diamond sharpener but honestly the last time I sharpened
>>> my 2" rope twist bit, afterwards it actually seems to cut worse.  So I'm
>>> not sure what I may be doing wrong.  Any ideas would be appreciated.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Tracy
>>>
>> --
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
>> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
>> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to
>> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at
>> https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
> email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at
> https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"Legacy Ornamental Mills" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Reply via email to