Your welcome the name is Zinser bulls eye seal coat de waxed shellac 
To be exact. You guys are so far advanced with the legacy mills I’m blown away. 
I just got mine and haven’t even started to figure out the basics and you guys 
are retooling and modifying so awesome. Look forward to more postings from all. 
Thank you all for info and pics this wil come in handy down the road
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 11:19 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> 
> Thank you Frank. I will take a better look the next time I buy some.  
> 
> NO Wax if you are going to use shellac as a sealer.
> The oil displacement method has worked out well for me, many times in the 
> past.
> I hope you get a chance to try it.
> 
> C.A.G.
> 
> On Monday, October 22, 2018, 12:18:40 PM EDT, 'Frank Vidmar' via Legacy 
> Ornamental Mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello not all their shellac is de waxed only seal a cell shellac
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2018, at 12:59 PM, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>> <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello Tracy
>> Although I have been using this oil displacement concept for a number of 
>> years. the wood that I've been using is for Martial art equipment, the only 
>> finish that I use are shellac and polyurethane.  But To  try to answer your 
>> question,(at least in part.) If you coat your turnings with Shellac, any oil 
>> in or on the wood will not effect paint and top coating finishes. 
>> I hope this helps?   "O" I used Zinser's/bulls-eye Shellac.  Its easy to 
>> find is any paint area, There Shellac is de-waxed, so it makes a great 
>> sealer, if you make your own shellac, the natural wax in the shellac may 
>> stop finishes form sticking.
>> 
>> Good luck on  your turnings. I think even if the wood is old the oil 
>> displacement couldnt hurt to try...!  :-)
>> 
>> C.A.G.
>> 
>> On Saturday, October 20, 2018, 11:35:11 PM EDT, Tracy Smith 
>> <trlsmit...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks Curt.
>> 
>> The balusters I have done are all pretty dry and whatever cracking I have, 
>> I'll have to deal with.  I love this idea though.  How does the oil method 
>> affect staining and finishing?  Does it impact how well stain or paint 
>> sticks?
>> 
>> Tracy
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 6:55 AM 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills 
>> <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>> Good morning Tracy
>> If you are worried about the wood cracking, why not try using my Oil method. 
>> 
>> That is put the spindles in a tub and oil the sides of the spindle, and then 
>> put oil on top, the end grain will soak up the oil.Keep adding oil on the 
>> top until it will not take any more, Over a few days of adding oil to the 
>> top of the wood, When the oil gets to the bottom of the tub, the wood is 
>> saturated with the oil, you can stop. 
>> The idea is to replace the water inside the wood with something that dose 
>> not dry out quickly,
>> As a General rule of thumb, the slower the wood drys out the more stable it 
>> will be.
>> I use this method on 9" logs, (for my Mook Jongs / Martial art Dummy's.) A 
>> green log, using this method
>> cracks very little if not at all. Tung oil or Boiled Lensead oil works well.
>> 
>> Again Nice work on your spindles. Keep it up! ;-)
>> Have a great day,
>> C.A.G.
>> On Wednesday, October 17, 2018, 2:52:36 PM EDT, Tracy Smith 
>> <trlsmit...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> This last week I started putting the bottom rails together.  I have four of 
>> them done now.  Here's a picture of one of them.  When I get all seven 
>> complete, I'll post pictures of each.
>> 
>> Tracy
>> 
>> On Wednesday, October 3, 2018 at 10:03:37 PM UTC-6, Tracy Smith wrote:
>> I finally finished the eight posts for the gazebo.  Here are a couple 
>> pictures with them all sanded up.  Each post is milled from an 6x6 Fir post 
>> that is 7.5" long.  There are four different designs:
>> 1. Flute: 1" core box with 6 index positions
>> 2. Rope Twist: 3" rope twist bit with 3 starts and a 3" classic spiral on 
>> the top and bottom.  One left turned and one right turned.
>> 3. Barley Twist: 3" barley twist bit with 1 start.  One turned left and one 
>> turned right.
>> 4. "Tight Flute": 3/8" core box with 20 index positions.  This has a 2" 
>> Plunge classic bit on the top and bottom.
>> 
>> The rounded part is 5" in diameter.  The bottom milled area is about 16" in 
>> length and the middle milled area is about 24" in length. I have some 
>> cracking but overall, they turned out as planned.
>> Tracy
>> 
>> On Saturday, September 15, 2018 at 10:25:22 PM UTC-6, Tracy Smith wrote:
>> Hi Everyone,
>> 
>> Today I was determined to extend the 1200.  The posts for my project are 90 
>> inches.  I had two 20" pieces or aluminum rail that ended up being the 
>> perfect length.  The first picture shows the simple extension.  I put a 
>> brace under the end to keep it level.  The second picture shows the post 
>> fitting :).  When I got to the second post, I nearly had a major problem as 
>> the weight of the post and the soft wood meant the clamp on the end started 
>> to move through the wood as it turned.  So I cut a piece of 3/4 inch plywood 
>> to size, screwed it on the end and placed a center hold on that - worked 
>> perfect with no slippage. The last picture shows the completed post.  Much 
>> of the day was spent setting up and testing but I was able to get two of 
>> these done today.  6 more posts to go.
>> 
>> The wood is a bit wet so some of the areas looked a bit frayed so I'll have 
>> more sanding to do than I hoped but the major work is done.
>> 
>> Tracy
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