Re: Router work

Wed, 01 Jan 2020 11:45:23 -0800

Happy New Year, LOM Group!

Curt - Thanks for finding and sharing those links.  That's a neat little machine.

No sense in watching Parts 2 and 3 with out also watching Part 1.
So here is a link to it;

"Pen Wizard Tips - Part 1"

Enjoy!
Mac

-----Original Message-----
From: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
Sent: Jan 1, 2020 11:56 AM
To: 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Router work

Hello Richard, I dont want to muddy the waters (so to speak) But here are two video .They are basically the same concepts as we talked about, done on the Legacy's Smaller cousin.(the pen Wizard.)

C.A.G.



On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 11:33:48 AM EST, 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills <[email protected]> wrote:


Hello Richard.  

Happy New Year.

Yes you can do those type of cuts on the Legacy.
There are a number of ways to get it done. 
What I would do is, to make a template of your bowl you 
want to make. then turn the bowl to the rough shape on the 
lathe. ( The Legacy could do the outer shapes by its self, but the Lathe would do it better.)
Once the shape has been done, the template will control the depth of cut, 
( YOU Will need to use a side cutting router bit for these process.) 
You will need to cut from the side (3 or 9 O'clock position,along the central axis.depending if you want to climb cut or under cut...) 
 
The fluting. 
Figure out the spacing you want,  indexing the part on the Legacy, 
Again you will need to make your cuts form the side of your work peice. (Mike Pung's gear indexing would work out nicely for this, But if you have the indexing plates you could also use them...)

Since you are cutting form the side the profile/shape of the bowl will flow up and down along the profile nicely. (just like your photo's) the template control's the depth of cut you make,as well as the shape. A router bearing could also be used, but for fine cuts the template is the safest way. If you use the bearing, you need to be careful that the bearing will not fall into a cut you already made, if it dose, your cut will be ruined.
The roping is basically the same. 
Figure what pitch you want and repeat the process you did for the fluting.

A trick that I've used in the past on roping. was to index the part first.(making a small mark on the end where the cuts will start from,and use these marks for your spacing. 
I mark my gears at the very start of your first cut,(as long as the gear marks line-up the gear ligament will always be 100% right on, (There is no Math or counting holes in an index plate after you start using this method.) then when you get the end of your cut, bring the carriage back to your starting point, then re-align your gears, index to the next cut/start. and re-engage the gears and make your next cut. (If you have any questions, this is the same process that I use in my Wave attachment video's.)

I wish you luck on your projects, and As Always, Please let us know how it "TURNS OUT".

C.A.G.

On Wednesday, January 1, 2020, 04:57:05 AM EST, Richard Ellis <[email protected]> wrote:


Any idea how this was done ?? I was posted on another woodworking forum.  Can this be done on a LOM ---not CNC 
Richard
                          DSC04495msa.jpg

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