Yup it is On Sat, May 11, 2024, 5:18 PM <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:
> Do not fear the warning that comes up when you click on curts link it is > safe to continue to the site > > > > Bill > > > > *From:* 'Curt George' via Legacy Ornamental Mills < > legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> > *Sent:* Sunday, May 12, 2024 12:08 AM > *To:* Legacy ornamental mills <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> > *Subject:* Hello to the Group > > > > Good morning everyone. > > > > Just a friendly note to say hello. > > The LOM users group has been a little bit slow as of late. > > We have a number of new members this month. But sadly > > many of them have not posted yet. > > If anyone has any questions or answer to plaguing problems > > they have figured out how to fix. This is the prefect time to let > > everyone know. > > I found a topic in our archives that I though many people here has > > not seen before on the rotatory table. > > https://ornamentalmills.com/turningaround/rotary%20table.htm > > *Russ V* > > If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot glue is the way. > If you are going to do a lot of the same size you can build a table for > them. I built a second table that I double tape to the original table. My > original table I never use directly. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center > and make a secondary table that I attach with double sided tape. This hole > helps me quickly align my rotary table to the router and to align the > second table to the first table by using a 1/4" dowel. To make the rosette > hold down table I screwed blocks on three sides of center to hold the > rosette centered. The 4th side is on a pivot that when closed I lock it > with the 5th swivel block and a dowel pin to hold it locked. If you are > going to cut on the outside > to make it round then use a small piece of DS tape to hold the piece once > you cut it loose. If they are already cut to size and shape the you only > need to lock it in the table. I used sand paper on the stationary blocks > and a nail cut off on the pivot block to help hold the rosette. I am > thinking that now I am going to make a table with sliding track going out > in 4 directions from center so I can then adjust the blocks to fit any size > rosette. > > I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table to cut blocks > round. On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on my > oscillating sander to smooth the edges and get the final diameter. Much > Much Safer. Use the rotary table to cut the surface only not all the way > thru. Screws, hot glue, DS tape are all good and well, but when I do > rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a time. The less screwing the better ( > in this case). With my table, I can change out the rosette in seconds . . > . no holes, no hot glue residue to clean up, and no DS tape to peel. > Again, I think I will redo this table with sliding tracks, I then can set > up to do any size rosette ( or box lid). The DS tape to hold the secondary > table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a dowel in the center. > The tape only hold the table from spinning. I guess I could screw the > secondary table down but I like to keep my primary table clean with only > the center hole so it will last. I think I am going to put a Formica > laminate on it to make it more durable and let DS tape stick better. > The center hole technique to center everything is really handy. Once I > center the table, everything can be centered quicker too. For example, If > I am going to center several object of the same size, I make one with a > hole in the center so I can then set it in place with a dowel. Then I DS > tape cleats in place on two sides. Now, every piece I set, whether with > hot glue, DS tape or whatever, the cleats will help me align to center > quicker. > > *Russv* > > As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see there are lines > drawn on the table. To create lines is as follows: > > After centering the machine, put a bit with a point in the router. Put > the router over center, lock the carriage down on the x axis, and plunge > down to barely touch the table. Start the router and plunge down. Then > slide the router along the y axis in one direction to the outside edge to > make a score line. Come back to center. Do not go the other direction on > the y axis. Turn the handle on the rotary table one full turn and slide > the router along the y axis again and back to center. Do this 8 times and > you > should see 4 long lines on your table at 45 degrees apart. The reason you > don't go both directions off the y axis is so that now when you look at the > lines, they should look straight all along the line even though you drew it > by two operations. If the lines don't look straight, then you weren't > centered. > If everything looks straight, then you are good to go. Make sure you > always line the router to this center point and you will be good to go. To > align a block of wood is simple now. If the block of wood has 90 degree > corners then when you line up all 4 corners on the lines on your table you > are centered. This still works on an octagon shape also. make sure you > use a pen in your score lines to make them easier to see. > > *Curt George* > > This set up, Is just a little moderation from the original unit, (I think > the table had to much play in the workings from the factory, so I figured a > way to tighten up the whole unit,) It has worked well for me so far. I can > use the handle and have more freedom with out hitting my hand on the > legacies inside rails. or I can mount the indexing gears and turn any > amount of degree I wish to and lock in place. I just put another locking > arm on the bottom of the table, this evening. (one worked ,but two is > better.) Everything is pretty straight forward, I used some ShopSmith > parts to make the coupling easer, but any coupler that can go from a #2 > mortise taper to a 5/8" shaft will do. The mounting of the table needed a > little lift (approx 1/16") to hold down the table I drilled a hole and > taped to a 3/8" thread. next I used a all thread rod, and screwed the rod > into the hole, using a nut a jammed the two together (to lock in place) > next the plywood and handle are easy to make. The two pieces of plywood > (side runners) are tight to the side rails, and are bolted through the > table. > > > > *John Doe* > > Here is what I did. I took a 14" square piece of drafting table top, found > center. Used a bowl cutting > template to draw 1" incremental circles. Then I routed a groove and > inserted T track to intersect in center using hold downs to hold sides of > material. Here's my problem, I am using a plunge cutting round over bit to > round over the outside edges and regardless of how tight I tighten it down > it still vibrates loose. I don't think I'm taking too big a bite each pass. > What are some good projects for the rotary table? > > To keep things in place use a piece of sticky back sand paper about 100 > grit or so. Or even some stair step non-skid tape. It will cure your slip > problem. The drafting table top is just too slick. > > > > First I am from Bloomington Il. I have been learning from everybody on > this forum. The first picture is the way I hooked up the table to my head > stock. I use different tables for each thing I do on the table. I just use > 1/4" pins to line everything up. The second picture shows that I am making > new indexing plates. This one is for 15 degree and 22 1/2 degree spacing. > They are made out of 1/8" hard board. The next two pictures are of the way > I hold down my rosettes. In the bottom there is a screw through the plywood > with just a small tip through to pin the rosette when I lock the arm in. I > would like say that I really enjoy this forum and wish that we could all > meet sometime. I have been woodworking for about 20 years as a second > income. I work for (now don't laugh) The Town Of Normal, Illinois. My hours > are am-12pm Tuesday thru Friday so this gives me time to do my woodworking. > For the last 6 years I have been doing a lot of kitchens and am tired of > doing them. So with my Legacy I am trying something different. OK enough > rambling time to relax. > > * > Mike* > > OK! > > IT WORKED!!! > > I've now got a new table top on my turn table, the hot glue sticks to it > well. but It also comes off with out damaging the surface. > > I mounted the poly. sheeting with screws to the old table top, (after > re-surfacing the particle board first) then I turned the table round. > centered and scribed a My cross hairs, then notched the hairs at 1,2,3" > then using a Sharpie marker I darkened the lines. > > the plywood is just my scrap ,Lets see project. ;-) It glued on held, and > was removed with out any problems. > > NOT TO BAD for 20 min. worth of work! ;-) > > have a good night. > > C.A.G. > > > > > Send mail to i...@ornamentalmills.com <i...@ornamentalmills.com>with > questions or comments about this web site. > Last modified: February 19, 2008 > > Have a good day, EVERYONE! > > > > C.A.G. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/800400605.768080.1715436501313%40mail.yahoo.com > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/800400605.768080.1715436501313%40mail.yahoo.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/001b01daa3f1%2420e07e00%2462a17a00%24%40mmnet.com.au > <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/legacy-ornamental-mills/001b01daa3f1%2420e07e00%2462a17a00%24%40mmnet.com.au?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer> > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. 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