Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 09:58:55 +0800
From: Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [LIB] Power Button Cover wanted.

At 06:46 PM 25/10/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 03:34:22 +0000 (UCT)
>From: xsintrk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: [LIB] Power Button Cover wanted.
>
>On Thu, 25 Oct 2001, Raymond wrote:
>>
>> This may be a dumb suggestion (oh wait, its from me, it MUST be a dumb suggestion 
>;-) ... but have you tried using an old accupoint cover and gluing it in place? 
>Alternatively, your local electronic hobbyists store may sell switches with suitably 
>sized actuators that you can cut off and adapt ... I can't quite see the switch 
>itself in those pics you posted (and I'm not about to try and pull mine apart!) but I 
>think its a pretty standard enclosed membrane switch so a suitable actuator shouldn't 
>be too hard to come by. Of course, the thing that bemuses me is how the heck did you 
>get that button off in the first place?
>>
>Its a plastic disc with 4 'fingers' around it, two of them broke from use
>and glueing it on to the spring looked horrid.

So it looks like this? (not to scale, forgive the poor attempt at an ASCII diagram)

    side
  _______
 _| |_| |_

    top
     _
    |_|
 _ /   \ _
|_|     |_|<--broke this 
   \ _ /
    |_|<-- and this

where the tabs are horrendously oversized in this diagram and you've broken 2 adjacent 
tabs such as the 2 I've marked (as opposed to 2 opposite tabs in which case it'd be 
easy)? Because if so, I've fixed a button that did this simply by supergluing a couple 
of metal hooks in the place of the missing tabs (I find cutting pieces from a shutter 
from a dead floppy disk then shaping them with a pair of very small pliers works 
well). If you prepare both surfaces well the super glue is plenty strong enough and 
the metal sheet from which most floppy shutters are made seems strong enough to take 
being bent into a hook shape yet springy enough to hold onto the back of the 
frontplate. Its also nice and thin so if you make sure the 'foot' is flat it shouldn't 
raise the profile of the button noticeably if at all. Alternatively, if there is 
space, a spot of epoxy may work even better (but is thicker than superglue). Having 
said that, the button I was dealing with was a little bigger and I had the luxury of 
being able to have a large 'foot' on the metal hook to glue onto the back of the 
button. I don't know how much room there is under this button or if the space needed 
to glue the metal tab in will foul up the spring ...


>> 2: How do you get around the heat problem? I'd imagine the airflow around it 
>wouldn't help much in the heat of summer ...

>I tore the port replicator apart and placed an aluminum block in it to
>pull heat off the bottom of the machine. I'll get some photos soon.

So your aluminium block is UNDER the port replicator's motherboard? Does that make 
much difference given you've got at least 5mm of plastic and circuit board between the 
bottom of the libby and the aluminium block?


>> 3: Are you powering it through a proper voltage increasing circuit or are you just 
>jacking it into the car's 13.8v power supply? Had any problems either way?
>
>I know I'll catch some flak for this, but I go straight off the vehicles
>system. I just haven't gotten around to picking up a proper convertor. The
>voltage is high enough to trigger the charging circuit, so far so good.

No zener or other voltage clipping circuit to kill alternator spikes? How long does it 
take to charge the battery on a vehicle's supply?


:-)


- Raymond

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