Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 23:12:14 +1100 From: Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [LIB] RE: L100 overclocking
- add some more heatsink grease to the heatpipe connected to the CPU
"Heatsink pipe"? I'm not quite sure what that is, unless it's just the heatsink.
It's a pile, apparently filled with fluid, that runs along the top of the heat plate. You can see it if you flip the keyboard up and lift the top edge of the thin shield, it starts on top of the CPU and ends just short of the microphone connector on the left. It's supposed to transmit heat very well ... it's a feature very common on newer laptops (often there are two of them leading from the area above the CPU to where the cooling fins or fan sit) so I guess they work ...
Be careful about adding more heatsink grease though, sure if there isn't enough already then adding more is good but don't add too much, it's only to fill in the 'roughness' of the metal at a microscopic level, not bridge a gap that shouldn't exist in the first place.
I haven't pulled a MB in sometime, and then only in my L50 & L70, not the L100.
The L50 and 70 didn't have them.
And I really hadn't even thought about checking with the manual on the procedure until you mentioned this. I wonder if there might any special considerations to be aware of before I proceed.
*shrug* I just tore into it and thought about the other things later ... heh
- make sure that the upper PCMCIA port is open if there is extended disk activity (like for editing video) - make sure that all screws are tight for better heat transfer, especially undek the ketboard - blow air on the L100 with a fan or if too hot, right into the PCMCIA slot with an aquarium aerator. I am planning to use a shell of a PCMCIA card to make some adapter for that.
I'd add to that, if you're doing anything intensive (encoding stuff, rendering stuff, compiling stuff, etc.) flip the libby on it's left end and flip the keyboard up (so it looks like a back-to-front F from above with the screen forming the top bar and the keyboard the middle one). That way you get air flowing easily past both the hard drive and the heat plate by convection.
Okay... then in Texas, you're dealing with the heat from the ambient air temperature that the system will be exposed to just as I will be here in Florida. Had you clocked up to 266? I wonder if there would be sufficiently less less heat generated at 233 to make a better option at some point.
I only clocked to 233 for precisely this reason (my L100 needs to be able to work in ambient temperatures of 30�C at least) ...
Has anyone done the modification to 233? It looks like it may actually entail de-soldering a component? Xin's website doesn't get into just what's involved.
That component is a 0-ohm resistor, just flick it out with a soldering iron then link the 3 pads with a short bit of wire (I used a strand out of a piece of multistrand hookup wire). I do notice that David's diagram (which I used to find out how to clock my L100) differs somewhat from the one at fixup.net ... I can see how both could work though (presumably Xin's method relies on some internal pull-up resistor to deal with the middle contact whereas David's one pulls it up explicitly) ...
- Raymond
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