You can also try removing power from the units (unplug) for a few minutes. That sometimes resets electronics and fixes problems.AndySent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message --------From: Rich Rosenbaum <[email protected]> Date: 4/22/25 10:45 AM (GMT-05:00) To: Laura Diamond <[email protected]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [LincolnTalk] Garage door openers Out of curiosity, I sent your message to ChatGPT.ChatGPT said:Thanks for the detailed explanation—super helpful in diagnosing a tricky situation like this. You're clearly thorough and already way ahead of most people in troubleshooting! Here’s a breakdown of what might be happening, why it's odd both units were affected simultaneously, and what else you might consider before replacing them:🔧 The Symptoms Recap: • Wall buttons work fine (so the openers aren’t dead). • Handheld remotes only work when extremely close to the unit (~10 inches from antenna wire). • Homelink in both cars can’t pair, despite following the correct process. • No recent power outage or bulb change. • Batteries replaced. • Eric (your garage door pro) spent 45 minutes trying to re-pair—no dice. • Both units are LiftMaster 1355-7 (with purple learn buttons = Security+ 315 MHz frequency).🧠 So What Could Cause This?1. RF InterferenceThis is the #1 suspect when openers suddenly stop responding to remotes from a distance. Causes include: • New electronics or devices in your home or neighborhood (LED lights, routers, even Wi-Fi extenders). • Nearby RF-emitting equipment, like a power meter, ham radio, or even a faulty appliance. • Vehicle electronics (especially newer cars) sometimes emit interference that affects HomeLink signals.Even though the remotes work at close range, interference could be killing signal strength at longer range.👉 Test: Unplug everything in your garage and nearby outlets (including chargers, LED bulbs, smart devices, etc.). Then test the remotes from a distance. If they suddenly work, you’ve found the culprit.2. Antenna Damage or Signal BlockageIf the antenna wires on both openers were bent, damaged, or pushed back into the housing, the signal strength would drop drastically.👉 Inspect: Make sure the antennas are fully extended, not frayed, pinched, or touching metal surfaces. You might even try repositioning them slightly (angling them down or out) to test.3. Power Surge or Electrical EventEven if you didn’t notice a power outage, a power surge or spike (lightning nearby, surge from a large appliance turning on, etc.) could fry the radio receiver circuits on both units without affecting the rest of the opener. That would explain: • Why remotes and HomeLink don’t work well • Why both units were hit at the same time • Why wall controls are unaffected👉 Check for: Evidence of surge events—burnt smell, scorched areas, or power strip tripping nearby. Also ask: were any other devices in the house affected (even slightly)?4. Radio Module Aging / Partial FailureThese units are 11 years old—definitely not a bad lifespan. It's possible the RF receiving modules in both just happened to fail around the same time. Not common, but also not unheard of.The fact that signal still works very close suggests they’re not fully dead, just "weak"—which happens when the internal components (like capacitors) start failing.🔍 Recommendations Before Replacing: 1 Try a Universal External Receiver LiftMaster sells external receivers that can be wired to the opener's terminals and use newer remotes (and potentially bypass interference). If the receiver works, it’s your internal board. 2 Use a handheld garage door tester (RF meter) If you or your garage tech can get one, it’ll show whether your remotes are transmitting normally and how much interference is around. 3 Replace just one logic board If you're comfortable with repairs, replace just one opener’s logic board (~$60–100 for a compatible board on eBay or parts dealers) and see if that fixes it. If it does, the second one likely needs the same.🔚 Bottom LineYou're probably looking at either: • External RF interference (most likely and potentially solvable) • Power surge damage (plausible, but tricky to prove) • Coincidental hardware failure (rare, but possible at the 11-year mark)If you like the idea of upgrading, now’s not a bad time—you’ll get quieter motors, battery backup (code required in some states), Wi-Fi control, and better HomeLink compatibility.But if you want to explore further first, start with checking for interference and consider trying an external receiver before a full replacement.ChatGPT can make mistakes. Check important info.On Tue, Apr 22, 2025 at 10:08 AM Laura Diamond via Lincoln <[email protected]> wrote:Hello Lincoln,I am hoping to learn more about a problem with our garage openers. On the same day they failed to open with both car pairings. There was no power outage, we did not change the light bulbs. They work from the wall buttons, and the hand held remotes do not work unless they are right under the ~10 in antenna wires. Batteries have been changed. I was unable to re-pair both the cars by pressing the "learn" button and with 30 seconds pressing the Home-link buttons in the cars. The Learn buttons light did go on. I tried resetting the car's HomeLink system by pressing and holding the first and third buttons for 20 seconds. Still would not connect. There is a signal coming from both Lift Masters, but not connecting. Door Pro's Eric, who is fabulous, spent at least 45 minutes on the phone with me while I went up and down the ladder, trying to pair both cars. He admitted that he had never seen this problem. His only solution was to replace the Lift Master units, because he assumed the mother boards were fried. But why both at the same time? Might there be an electrical problem in the house that caused both units to "fail" at the same time. But they have not totally failed, just the ability to connect to the cars. Details- They were both installed in 2014 and have purple square learn buttons. They are 1355-7. I have no problem replacing these as they probably have outlived their life expectancy of 10-15 years. Just want to be sure there is not an underlying problem. Thanks in advance for your collective wisdom!Laura Laura Diamond, MS, PTDiamond Physical Therapy Associates, PCwww.diamondphysicaltherapy.com617-803-8730This email and any files transmitted with it may contain PRIVILEGED or CONFIDENTIAL information and may be read or used only by the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient of the email or any of its attachments, please be advised that you have received this email in error and that any use, dissemination, distribution, forwarding, printing, or copying of this email or any attached files is strictly prohibited. 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