Sorry to bring this up again after some time.
Technically the best is UDASSS: http://24ways.org/advent/introducing-udasss which uses an accessible to everyone server side control and Ajax goodness to prevent you from an evil reload at the same time.
I first looked at this a while ago and decided not to use it because I couldn't get the swapped styles to persist when changing pages. I went back to Dustin's site and tried his different styles to see whether it was something wrong with my implementation but found the same thing: a new style would only stay for the page you were on; as soon as you went to a new one, it would revert back to default style. I made a comment on the UDASSS page at the time about this but it was never followed up.
Anyway, after seeing it mentioned a few times on this list I thought I'd look at it again for a new project but the problem still remains.
So I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this or does anyone have an example of a site that uses UDASSS that has the styles persist when changing pages?
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