those PM elec-trak motors are the culprit. Probably 600W, but only at like
4000RPM. If you overcurrent them you will probably just demagnetize them.

Seth

On 6/25/07, damon henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Yes that is a possibility, but one you will be able to determine by
hooking
a battery directly to the motor.  If it sucks huge amounts of current,
then
you need to change the gearing to allow the motor to spin faster.  What
does
it do up on a stand with no load except turning the wheel?  How about with
no one on the mini-bike just you walking or running along side?  If you
are
bogging down the motor then a gearing change is in order.  I forget what
the
exact tooth count was, but it seems like you mentioned 12 to 64 or there
abouts which sounds pretty good to me.

I think you have everything you need for a fun ride, you just need to weed
out the weak link.  Since it sounds like you have access to a contactor, I
think you will find a good old fasion binary controller and 36 volts of
batteries just the ticket.  Work your way up to that level though and
watch
the temperature of your motor.  You don't want to burn it up.

damon


>From: SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: ElectricMotorcycles <[email protected]>
>To: ElectricMotorcycles <[email protected]>
>Subject: Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] mini-bike performance
>Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 07:44:33 -0400
>
>Isn't there another possibility - the gearing and setup? I think my
wiring
>and all are adequate, but maybe my gearing is wrong. Obviously gearing
>affects top speed directly, but how much affect on performance does
gearing
>have? When I'm running at 5MPH and the motor is turning 800 RPM, is that
>too slow to get adequate power?
>
>- SteveS
>
>
>damon henry wrote:
>>>Well, there are only three possibilities.  It's the motor, the
batteries,
>>>or the controller.
>>
>>
>
>
>

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