I stand corrected, 361F, the irons I used ran quite a bit higher than that, and maybe that was my recollection. Lead melts at 621F, and tin at 450F, but their alloy (electrical solder) melts at a much lower temp, go figure. Much more than you wanted to know, eh? Mechanical connections, such as twisting, clamping or crimping then soldering is SOP for electrical connections that stand the test of time.
The PMG uses clips like the ETEK but I still see no evidence my motor is being over-amped... the PMG is actually rated for 72 volts the ETEK is rated for 48 volts. That might explain the price difference, I haven't heard of someone frying a PMG (yet). Jeff -----Original Message----- >From: Chris Tromley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Jul 18, 2007 5:36 PM >To: ElectricMotorcycles <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] Fw: Re: Throw another Etek on the barbie > >On 7/18/07, Jeff Blamey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Solder melts in the 500F range as I recall, the tips of the motor could be >> quite a bit different temperature than the outer case or the area where the >> temp gage can get to. > >Typical lead-tin solder melts at 360F. The point though, is that you >don't need to reach this temperature to have a failure. Any time the >motor is spinning there is a load on the solder joints. Each time you >heat and cool the motor with those clips under a centrifugal load, >even if you get nowhere near the solder melt temperature, the solder >joint weakens a little more. Finally one day it lets go. > >Y'know, the more I think about wrapping a Kevlar band around those >clips the more I think it's worth trying. Is there enough clearance >between the armature and the case? It's probably a cheap and easy >trick for someone who's done Kevlar banding on series motors. > >Chris >
