also, as stated in my post, I went by what others with this size of motor did. I ignore John Bidwells data mostly because the motor isn't even close to what I've got. I've got a much larger, higher torque higher RPM motor with better cooling. There are 3 other bikes using this same size motor, with a 3 to a 4.5 ratio and its working wonderfully.
That ratio was worked out for the Etek motor, not an ADC motor. and also stated, this is just to test and play around with. Why replace it all with what someone else used on a smaller motor without knowing if it would work? Why not just see how it goes, if it doesn't work, then I just get a new chain (this one was 18 bucks) and a new rear sprocket. Why spend 200+ dollars if its going to work just fine? On Mon, May 5, 2008 at 9:49 AM, Jeffrey Blamey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You had mentioned 4:1. I think most of the bikes as a compromise > between accelleration and battery range are more in the 5:1 to 6:1. > The way I maintained the #50 drive chain was a jack shaft and a > shorter #40 chain with smaller sprockets to make the ratio change but > with your mounting it precludes a jack shaft. The reason for #40 is > the 72 tooth wheel in the back as recommended by John Bidwell in > Secrets of El Ninja, the only way to achieve the ratios would be a > huge rear sprocket. > > Cheers > Jeff 84 Franken'ceptor > > On Mon, May 5, 2008 at 7:49 AM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Are you sure the sprockets are lined up perfectly? You'll get a lot of > noise > > if they aren't. It's hard to tell from the video, but it seemed noisier > than > > it should be, which makes me question the alignment. > > > > - SteveS > > > > Travis Gintz wrote: > > > > > Its chain noise from the roller chain, every time a link hits the > > sprocket, it makes a noise, which is quieter with O-ring chain. > > > > > > I'm using 530 chain (ANSI #50) because it was stock, and easy to get > front > > sprockets for from surpluscenter.com <http://surpluscenter.com>. Plus, > > they've got more options for steel rear sprockets if I need them at > > Sprocketspecialists.com > > > > > > Why are you using #40? any reason? What is the stock sprocket size on > your > > motorcycle? #40 isn't a popular size. Isn't that 425 motorcycle chain? > > You'll need to find a place that can get you chain in any length you > want > > (because I had to lengthen mine). > > > Electricmotorsport.com sells 420 and 428 chain, but no 425 (#40). > > > > > > I'm not all that worried about noise, but it would be nice to quiet it > > down a little more. I was more or less explaining to those that think > its > > loud :) > > > > > > On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 5:51 PM, Andrew Wowk <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote: > > > > > > Travis, > > > you mention using an o-ring chain to quiet things down. I'm > > > curious if these are available for a standard #40 chain? I'm also > > > using a machine chain which seems to work fine. The noise > > > generated might actually be good for safety. The bike has a shock > > > absorber in the wheel coupled to the rear sprocket which probably > > > helps some with the pulsations created by the driven sprocket. > > > > > > > > > On Sun, May 4, 2008 at 3:59 PM, Travis Gintz <[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote: > > > > > > So, another update to my blog this week. A friend (Loni) Has > been > > > helping me with the motor mount. We got it mounted earlier > > > this week, > > > and Saturday I installed the motor, front sprocket and the > > > chain, and > > > decided to test it out. This is with one 18Ah 12V battery. 80A > > > when > > > first spinning up, then drops to around 20A continuous. > > > > > > http://blog.evfr.net/ > > > > > > Just the video: > > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D27TJUc1fK8 > > > > > > The chain was cheap machine chain, and while its not TOO loud, > > > It will > > > be replaced by o-ring chain to quiet things down. I used a > 13tooth > > > front sprocket and 44 rear, but have 11 and 12 tooth fronts to > > > test > > > and play around with. Right now, its 3.4:1, and adjustable to > > > 4:1 with > > > the 11 tooth. > > > > > > Next step is the battery boxes and getting the controller and > > > charger > > > finalized. Synkromotive is finalizing the controller, and the > > > charger > > > is in the process of getting boards made. Once that is all > > > together, > > > we should be running under full non-tethered power. > > > > > > -- > > > Travis Gintz > > > 1986 Honda VFR DC conversion > > > Http://blog.evfr.net/ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > Travis Gintz > > > 1986 Honda VFR DC conversion > > > Http://blog.evfr.net/ > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.8/1415 - > Release > > Date: 5/5/2008 6:01 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Travis Gintz 1986 Honda VFR DC conversion Http://blog.evfr.net/
