Hi everyone, interesting dialogue about using AA batteries. I did not know you 
can use them, but now that I think about it, why not. I am very new to the 
electric vehicle world, and electricity in general. Do you want to have 
batteries that have high amps so the wattage is greater? Anton

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Scott Kuzma<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
  To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> 
  Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 6:29 PM
  Subject: Re: [FLEAA] listserv Digest, Vol 6, Issue 12


  Shawn, 
         I was simply calculating to run 120volts.  I was under the impression 
(based on an EV parts store online) that the Zilla was only good to 156 volts.  
I just looked again and noticed that there are other models within the 1000amp 
setup that they make.  Would there be any range advantage to gain by running at 
a higher voltage.  
       I know most people take out the clutch like Bob did, but I am toying 
with the idea of a hydrolic pump/drive system that functions as a CVT system so 
that I can keep the motor at the sweetspot of efficiency while having the most 
amount of torque available to the wheels.  This would reduce the amount of 
electrical load that the system will see, requiring less amperage to pull from 
the battery system...in turn extending the range capability. 
      
       ~Best,
   Scott Kuzma


        


  On Jan 14, 2008 5:33 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:

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    Today's Topics:

      1. Re: listserv Digest, Vol 6, Issue 10 (Shawn Waggoner (FLEAA))


    ---------- Forwarded message ----------
    From: "Shawn Waggoner \(FLEAA\)" < [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]>>
    To: "'FLEAA Mailing List'" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:38:44 -0500 
    Subject: Re: [FLEAA] listserv Digest, Vol 6, Issue 10

    At the 54Ah of batteries in a 2500 lb car, I would venture a guess at a 
30-35 mile range. To get a safe 50 mile range, I would almost double the pack 
capacity.



    Also, are you basing your pack voltage of 120VDC on a particular controller 
and its limit? Or are you using 120VDC based on one of the conversations over 
the weekend? Most conversions that are based on the Curtis controllers tend to 
be 120-144VDC, but most of the Zilla installations are over 156VDC, some as 
high as 360VDC. Bob's truck which was at the meeting is 120VDC, but Matt's 
Nissan is 300VDC – both use Zilla controllers. 



    Shawn




----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] On Behalf Of Scott Kuzma
    Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 5:18 PM
    To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
    Subject: Re: [FLEAA] listserv Digest, Vol 6, Issue 10



         Shawn had the understanding of my arrangement correct with 18 cells in 
parallel per pack, and 80 packs in series.  I like the sound of Frank's idea of 
using diodes.  If they induce a voltage drop that I must sacrifice, then I 
don't see why I couldn't offset this by using one or two additional packs to 
total up to 132 or 144 volts.  Where do the diodes go?  Between each pack, or 
each cell?  I know what a diode does, but nothing beyond that...especially when 
talking about an application like this.  I would definitely need assistance in 
this department. 
         With the vehicle weight being approximately 2500 pounds, and a desired 
driving range of 40 - 50 miles per charge, how many AH's should I aim for with 
a 120 - 144 volt system?  I recall Andrew Roddy mentioning that the battery 
pack in his eBOX was 600 pounds.  Is that the batteries alone, or batteries 
plus casing?  At 15 grams (.033 pounds) per AA lithium battery, my estimated 
battery-only weight would only be 47 pounds.  This is great for keeping the 
vehicle on a diet, and if the worst case scenario of having to double the 
capacity had to occur, I would be at about 100 pounds of battery weight.  Of 
course, this would also offset the weight of the wallet which would be much 
lighter as well.  ;) 

         ~Best,
    Scott Kuzma




    On Jan 14, 2008 4:03 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> 
wrote:

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    Today's Topics:

      1. Battery information... (Scott Kuzma)
      2. Re: Battery information... (Jim Millener)
      3. Re: Battery information... (Shawn Waggoner (FLEAA)) 
      4. Re: Battery information... (Frank Leslie)


    ---------- Forwarded message ----------
    From: "Scott Kuzma" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
    To:  [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
    Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:38:00 -0500
    Subject: [FLEAA] Battery information...
     Greetings everyone,
          This is Scott from the meeting that we had this past weekend.  I came 
up with an interesting idea, but have no idea if it's possible.  Basically, 
what is there to stop the use of a Lithium AA battery from being used to power 
the vehicle?  I have found a AA with a 3ah rating at 1.5 volts.  If you bundled 
at least 80 packs together, you would get the needed 120 volts.  If each pack 
had 18 units within it, totaling 1440 cells.  1440 x's 3ah = 4320ah.  I'm not 
familiar with how many ah would be needed.  Can anyone provide an estimate for 
a 2500 pound car. 

         The other concern is that Lithium powered EV's seem to always have a 
heavily detailed diagnostic system for the battery packs.  How ultra-critical 
is this?  If I had a highly efficient cooling system to maintain the battery 
temps in a safe range, would I also need to monitor the voltage of each battery 
pack?  I'm trying to figure a budget-minded way of doing this without an exotic 
charger/controller.  Pie in the sky?  Throw me a bone. 

        ~Best,
    Scott Kuzma


    ---------- Forwarded message ----------
    From: "Jim Millener" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
    To: "'FLEAA Mailing List'" < 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:49:58 -0500
    Subject: Re: [FLEAA] Battery information...

    http://batteryuniversity.com/<http://batteryuniversity.com/>



    JCM II, Inc.

    6574 N State Road 7

    PMB 102

    Coconut Creek , FL 33073

    Ph: 954-345-2253

    Cell: 954-803-3375

    IM: Jim Millener




----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] On Behalf Of Scott Kuzma
    Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:38 PM
    To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
    Subject: [FLEAA] Battery information...



     Greetings everyone,
          This is Scott from the meeting that we had this past weekend.  I came 
up with an interesting idea, but have no idea if it's possible.  Basically, 
what is there to stop the use of a Lithium AA battery from being used to power 
the vehicle?  I have found a AA with a 3ah rating at 1.5 volts.  If you bundled 
at least 80 packs together, you would get the needed 120 volts.  If each pack 
had 18 units within it, totaling 1440 cells.  1440 x's 3ah = 4320ah.  I'm not 
familiar with how many ah would be needed.  Can anyone provide an estimate for 
a 2500 pound car. 

         The other concern is that Lithium powered EV's seem to always have a 
heavily detailed diagnostic system for the battery packs.  How ultra-critical 
is this?  If I had a highly efficient cooling system to maintain the battery 
temps in a safe range, would I also need to monitor the voltage of each battery 
pack?  I'm trying to figure a budget-minded way of doing this without an exotic 
charger/controller.  Pie in the sky?  Throw me a bone. 

        ~Best,
    Scott Kuzma



    ---------- Forwarded message ----------
    From: "Shawn Waggoner \(FLEAA\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]>>
    To: "'FLEAA Mailing List'" < 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:56:23 -0500
    Subject: Re: [FLEAA] Battery information...

    Hi Scott,



    On your pack idea, if you had 18 cells in parallel (still at 1.5 VDC 
nominal), you would have a 1.5V pack at 54Ah (18 * 3Ah), string 80 of those 
together and you have a 120VDC (1.5V * 80) pack at the 54Ah. While this would 
be smaller than a normal pack and on par with a pack of AGM batteries 
(Orbitals, Discovers, etc), it would require a lot of wiring and connections. 
It is very doable though, it just depends on what the cost of the AA cells are 
compared to the AGMs.  



    On the Battery Management System (BMS) for the pack, they are there to help 
keep the batteries at the same voltage and working together, both during 
charging and discharging. Having that many batteries (even 25 AGMs can be a 
problem) poses issues with keeping the batteries in balance. When the batteries 
are out of balance, one cell or group of cells, works harder than the other and 
is prone to failure. Once one or 2 cells fail, the likelihood of others 
following suite are good, ultimately causing the pack to fail. This can get 
very costly very quick! 



    In a nutshell, the more advanced the battery chemistry, the more regulation 
is required to keep them working properly.



    Hope that helps!



    Shawn




----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] On Behalf Of Scott Kuzma
    Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:38 PM
    To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
    Subject: [FLEAA] Battery information...



     Greetings everyone,
          This is Scott from the meeting that we had this past weekend.  I came 
up with an interesting idea, but have no idea if it's possible.  Basically, 
what is there to stop the use of a Lithium AA battery from being used to power 
the vehicle?  I have found a AA with a 3ah rating at 1.5 volts.  If you bundled 
at least 80 packs together, you would get the needed 120 volts.  If each pack 
had 18 units within it, totaling 1440 cells.  1440 x's 3ah = 4320ah.  I'm not 
familiar with how many ah would be needed.  Can anyone provide an estimate for 
a 2500 pound car. 

         The other concern is that Lithium powered EV's seem to always have a 
heavily detailed diagnostic system for the battery packs.  How ultra-critical 
is this?  If I had a highly efficient cooling system to maintain the battery 
temps in a safe range, would I also need to monitor the voltage of each battery 
pack?  I'm trying to figure a budget-minded way of doing this without an exotic 
charger/controller.  Pie in the sky?  Throw me a bone. 

        ~Best,
    Scott Kuzma



    ---------- Forwarded message ----------
    From: "Frank Leslie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
    To: "'FLEAA Mailing List'" < 
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>>
    Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:03:44 -0500
    Subject: Re: [FLEAA] Battery information...

    Scott,



    If there are 18 strings at 80 cells in series each (if that's what you 
meant), the voltages add for 120V, but it's still 3 Ah. Then putting 18 of 
these strings in parallel, the total Ah is 18 times 3 Ah = 54 Ah. The cell 
watt-hours = 1.5V times 3 Ah = 4.5 Wh each, and it's limited by the weakest 
cell in the string.



    If you can stand diode drop, put a diode in series with each string to a 
summing junction (the output). The voltage is then 120V - 0.7V = 119.3V for 
silicon diodes or 119.6 for Schottky diodes. Whichever string has the highest 
voltage will discharge first, dropping to where the next string adds more 
current, and very shortly, all strings contribute equally.



    Frank




----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [mailto:[EMAIL 
PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>] On Behalf Of Scott Kuzma
    Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:38 PM
    To: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
    Subject: [FLEAA] Battery information...

     Greetings everyone,
          This is Scott from the meeting that we had this past weekend.  I came 
up with an interesting idea, but have no idea if it's possible.  Basically, 
what is there to stop the use of a Lithium AA battery from being used to power 
the vehicle?  I have found a AA with a 3ah rating at 1.5 volts.  If you bundled 
at least 80 packs together, you would get the needed 120 volts.  If each pack 
had 18 units within it, totaling 1440 cells.  1440 x's 3ah = 4320ah.  I'm not 
familiar with how many ah would be needed.  Can anyone provide an estimate for 
a 2500 pound car. 

         The other concern is that Lithium powered EV's seem to always have a 
heavily detailed diagnostic system for the battery packs.  How ultra-critical 
is this?  If I had a highly efficient cooling system to maintain the battery 
temps in a safe range, would I also need to monitor the voltage of each battery 
pack?  I'm trying to figure a budget-minded way of doing this without an exotic 
charger/controller.  Pie in the sky?  Throw me a bone. 

        ~Best,
    Scott Kuzma


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