I made a pendant switch from items I found in the local hardware store after two "store bought" "weatherproof" pendant switches leaked and failed. Starting with a PVC threaded pipe cap, I think it's 1 1/2". The switch goes there. The switch is a center-off toggle switch with spring return on both throws to move the windlass either in or out. Ordinary round three-conductor wire (SO or SOJ) is used to connect the switch to the operating solenoids. Solder the wire to the switch. A rubber boot for the switch handle is required too. Into the pipe cap is screwed a male thread/socketweld adapter, then a socketweld reducing bushing, then a socketweld to female threaded adapter into which is screwed a "strain relief" as electricians would call it but we would call it a packing gland for the wire to exit. Usually black plastic, the wire goes through this and a packing nut squeezes a rubber doughnut seal tightly around the wire. The whole shebang is put together with glue on the socketweld parts and Teflon tape on the threaded parts. Mine has worked for many years but I did have to replace the switch once when the boot tore so get a spare switch and boot. I stow the pendant switch inside the forepeak hatch. The big advantage over a foot switch is that you can carry the switch around so you can be in a good position to oversee the rode coming aboard. The big disadvantage is that it ties up one hand to operate the switch so perhaps (and I haven't done this yet) a Good Thing would be also a foot switch where one would stand to tail a line wrapped around the rope drum if the windlass is fitted with one. With a pendant switch this is really a two-man job. Norm S/V Bandersnatch Lying Julington Creek 30 07.695N 081 38.484W > [Original Message] > From: Sea Quell crew. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Date: 6/19/2008 9:29:25 PM > Subject: [Liveaboard] Windlass switch suggestions? > > > Have any of you installed a windlass lately? > > I'm looking for suggestions for a set of windlass foot-switches that > doesn't require a pair of 2" or 2.5" holes drilled into the deck. The > switch carries only a low voltage, so the huge bolts/lugs on the > standard foot-switch are not required. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > -Neal. > > _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list [email protected] To adjust your membership settings over the web http://www.liveaboardnow.org/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] To unsubscribe send an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] The archives are at http://www.liveaboardnow.org/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
