I make major connectors up the same way.  

I also smear some Copper Kote on the wires after soldering hoping some will
wick up into the strands before the corrosion does.  Perhaps a hot pot with
Copper Kote in it for dipping would be ideal.  

I also fill any gap between the wires insulation and the solder with a
strip of electrical tape, then shrink the shrink wrap.  I make up the
connection with a little Copper Kote on it too.

On some mid-size ring terminals I pull the insulation off then crimp and
solder, especially in the engine room.

I used to crimp and solder very terminal, but lately I have become lazy so
most of my smaller terminals in my relatively dry interior are just crimped.

I believe crimp and solder, like belt and suspenders, is really the best.


Norm
S/V Bandersnatch
Lying Julington Creek
30 07.695N  081 38.484W




> [Original Message]
> From: Ron Rogers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 7/25/2008 1:29:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Soldered connections on 12 VDC buss
>
> Arild,
>
> Norm's boat is ferrocement. In 1973 I was taking my Tartan 27 from Long 
> Island, NY to Wilmington, NC. Sparkman & Stephens recommended me to an 
> electronics outfit which did tugboats. They sold to me at wholesale 
> everything that I needed to include the first portable VHF (Decca.) They 
> sold me tinned wire and zinc connectors. They instructed me to first
place 
> shrink wrap on the wire, then attach the connector with a slight
mechanical 
> crimp allowing the wire to peek out of a small hole in front. Then I
heated 
> the lug till I had a bright soldered connection with the lug filled. 
> Finally, I shrunk the wrap around the insulation/lug join.
>
> Until your email, I had thought that crimp-only was the new and better
way. 
> Now I know better. The only improvement that I really like is the
adhesive, 
> heat shrink connectors which are both water resistant and provide strain 
> relief.
>
> Ron
>
> 


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