Sealubber,

If you don't mind, I have a few newbe questions about the storm anchor system 
you discribe.  


--- On Mon, 8/18/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] storm anchor
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Monday, August 18, 2008, 11:10 AM
> A large, regular anchor, 


IT IS MY UNDERSTANDING ANCHOR SIZING IS A FAIRLY HARD SCIENCE.  I HAVE BEEN 
TOLD THE SAFE WAY IS TO TELL THE SUPPLIER THE DEMENSIONS OF YOUR BOAT AND 
WHATEVER HE RECOMMENDS, GO ONE SIZE BIGGER.

whatever you have that holds in
> your type mud,  will 
> work. Two anchors, one forward and one aft may be better.


WHAT HAPPENS WITH A FORE AND AFT ANCHORING WHEN THE TIDE OR WIND SHIFTS?

> Be sure to set it  
> well. As stated, you need two lines or a bridle, for and
> aft, 

IS A BRIDLE WRONG FOR THE BOW IF YOU BRIDLE THE STERN?  WHY?


and you need  to 
> hold well off the concrete wall which could be a problem
> for you to get off  
> the boat after securing. The anchor needs to be marked with
> a float, and If  
> there is traffic on the canal, the rode needs to have
> another anchor or weight  
> near the boat to hold the rode down on the bottom. 

DO YOU ALLOW THE RODE ANCHOR TO MOVE UP AND DOWN THE RODE OR IS IT TIED SOLID?

When the
> wind gusts the  
> weight will rise and the boat will move with the gust so
> the distance between  
> the dock and boat should be great enough to not allow the
> boat to hit the dock 
>  if the rode is extended off the bottom. If you have a
> sturdy midship cleat,  
> that might work, but I would go with a bridle or two
> anchors. Of course, good 
>  spring lines forward and aft are necessary. 


ONCE AGAIN, HOW DOES THIS WORK WITH SHIFTING WINDS AND TURNING TIDES?
Double all
> lines. Normally it's 
> a  chafe precaution not strength issue. I don't
> recommend staying on the boat. 
>  If it is a cat one or two, it probably is not real
> dangerous, but it will  
> definitely not be fun. Get off the boat and check on it
> occasionally. Strip off 
>  all the canvas and sails or at least the canvas and head
> sail, be sure  the 
> batteries are up to run bilge pumps, put all interior items
> in the floor and  
> secure, shut all seacocks, turn off dock power and remove
> power cord. Turn off 
>  boat power except pumps. Check the scuppers and be sure
> they are clean and  
> nothing floating around will clog them. Pump heads dry. If
> this is a sail  
> boat and you want to leave the main on, bind it tightly
> with line over the cover  
> and secure any line tails. Obviously, secure the boom from
> both directions. 
> Put  chafe guards on all working lines. Halyards and other
> lines that can touch 
> a  spreader or other hard object must be moved and secured.
> If any line can 
> touch a  hard object in the wind, the vibration will saw it
> into. Secure the 
> tails of all  lines. Put out fenders in case the anchor
> drags. The  surge tide 
> is the  biggest problem. Be sure to check on the lines and
> adjust as necessary 
> during  the storm. The wind is the lesser problem. If you
> are attached to any 
> piles,  when the surge tide comes in and the lines get
> tight the upward 
> pressure  and constant movement of the boat will pull the
> piles out. Keep the lines 
> loose  enough that the force is as horizontal as possible.
> Be sure to wear PFD 
> when  checking lines and don't venture out alone. Swim
> goggles or snow ski  
> goggles are sometimes necessary in the blowing rain.
> Don't put your  fingers, 
> hands, arms, legs, or body between the boat and dock or
> between a line  and 
> something hard, it will get you.
> Be careful, don't do anything stupid, and good  luck. 

THANKS,

CASEY
> 
> 
> 
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