Cod Almighty - August 22

We sailed off our mooring in Portland in the endings of a mild 
Norwester on Wednesday morning at about 9AM.  We'd timed our 
departure to take advantage of the falling tide, and got a nice 
lift as we exited the Portland approach lanes.  The winds were 
piping at 18-25 knots NW, with gusts to 30, so we put in a single 
reef at the mooring, and sailed on the main only until the 
expected dying wind.

Flying Pig stood up and single-reef sailed along very comfortably 
in moderate seas.  Lydia's feeling more and more secure in her 
stomach these days; with the moderate seas forecast for our 
journey, she decided to try this one without her usual Stugeron 
(a seasickness remedy widely available over the counter 
everywhere else in the world other than the US).  I'm pleased to 
say she felt comfortable the entire way.

That's very good, because even very experienced sailors sometimes 
never shake their seasickness (Lin Pardey comes to mind; she's 
regularly seasick, despite her world-girdling experience and 
longevity at sea, along with several publications about heavy 
weather); if she can get past that, she'll be far more effective 
on watch...

By 11AM, the wind had indeed died a bit, and our route took us 
further downwind, with promised changes to the west encouraging 
us to shake out the reef and unfurl the genoa.  With our forward 
motion, the apparent wind went forward, and we had an effective 
beam reach, so at 1:30, we also put up the staysail.  However, 
the wind direction never did change - only our routing, which 
made it very good that we still had a NW wind!  A true West wind 
would have required a very close reach, or a beat...

Following my repair of the rot in the Vee, the area of support of 
the staysail reinforcing cable securing the cabin roof from 
flexing, I also slacked the babystay (inner forestay for the 
staysail) so that the mast wasn't deformed as it had been before, 
and we had a marvelous cutter-rigged (genoa and inner foresail) 
run in about 10 knots of apparent wind and brilliant sunshine. 
All signs pointed to our having pretty well tweaked the standing 
rigging (the stainless steel wires which keep the mast in place), 
and the boat balanced marvelously.

Taking advantage of the current forecasting mentioned in the 
Float Plan before we left Florida, we knew that we'd have a 
slight current helping us along, and, sure enough, we had an 
effective speed over ground of 6.4 knots with only a 5.7 knot 
through-the-water ("boat") speed.

Though relatively uneventful in comparison to some of our 
passages, this one featured our seeing a couple of whale spouts, 
and one instance of a whale surfacing and diving.  Unfortunately, 
that's so far been the extent of our whale sightings so far, but 
there are charter boats which take folks out to look at whales, 
so perhaps while we're in this area, we'll get to see more of 
them, at closer range...

The wind continued to abate, and the afternoon had us just barely 
moving, as seen by the very close SPOT locations.  Lydia went 
down to sleep at about 7PM, in our usual routine (still not a 
"watch schedule" - but it usually works out that she's on the 
dawn patrol, in our recent times), and I settled in for the 
night.

However, the wind came up briefly in the early evening, and we 
picked up our speed again to about 6 knots.  By 9, it rose to 
12-16 knots, with gusts to ~18, and our speed again rose to 7.5 
knots.  The 2/3 moonrise at about 10PM was spectacular as we 
mostly beam-reached along, with the apparent wind varying between 
75-110 degrees off our starboard bow.

Unfortunately for us, the wind again died, and the gentle rain 
came.  The good news is that it washed down the boat of the salt 
it had accumulated in the prior 15 hours or so.  By 1AM, as it 
continued to abate, and worse, was clocking around to the SW, we 
had only 5-10 knots.  By 2:30, it had basically died, so I rolled 
in the genoa and sheeted the main and staysail flat and hard to 
help minimize the roll in the beam seas induced by the last few 
hours' worth of wind.  As before, we're not running the engine 
any more than absolutely needed...  The zephyr let us ghost 
along, essentially on a beat, but with next to no wind, it sounds 
like melodrama to call going 20 degrees on the wind a "beat" :{)) 
However, even with the helping current, we weren't going anywhere 
very fast!

By false dawn Thursday, the wind had piped up to 3-6 knots, and 
shifted a bit to the west, so I again rolled out the genoa, and 
our speed rose to a dizzying 3 knots.  Had we continued to enjoy 
the earlier night's wind, we'd have made better time, but...

At 7AM Lydia came up and we dropped the main and staysail, rolled 
up the genoa, and entered the Cape Cod Canal.  Our charts showed 
that we'd be at slack water in the beginning, but would have a 
heading current later. Rather than spend the entire middle of the 
day just parked, waiting for the favorable current, we forged 
ahead.  Of course, this is like the ICW, so we turned on Perky, 
our reliable engine, and made tolerable time through the canal, 
despite, at the end, a heading current of 4 knots.  That is, we 
were being pushed backward by, eventually, nearly 5 knots, so our 
actual ground speed at the end wasn't even 2 knots.

Fortunately, we made it under the railroad bridge just before it 
lowered, and once out of the canal, the effects of the current 
lessened, and we commenced being a sailboat again once we were 
out of the shoal areas immediately past the canal mouth.  Again, 
winds were very light, but Lydia single-handed us as we sailed a 
very close beat out of that area while I went down for a nap at 
about 10.

Apparently Flying Pig likes the rig setup now, as she sailed 
herself on the beats, so we gave Otto the day off.  Along the 
way, our solar and wind generators made lots of electricity, 
filling our batteries as well as tending to the various other 
electrical needs aboard. Several tacks later, the wind picked up 
a bit, and the noise of both the water and the sail changes woke 
me.  Our apparent winds were now up in the teens again, and we 
were making reasonable time, but Woods Hole was directly where 
the wind was coming from, so...

We beat our way through 3 tacks on our way to Woods Hole, where, 
again, the currents were against us.  While we were sailing at a 
reasonable speed through the water, we actually were going 
backwards at one point.  Because it was a channel, with a vicious 
rip churning up the water, rather than beat ourselves up, as well 
as risk being forced into one of the markers, we turned on the 
iron genoa (Perky), for the few minutes it took to get through 
the rip area and out into the open again.

If our winds had persisted through the night, we'd have beaten 
both adverse currents.  The effect of the light winds overnight 
was that we not only had to deal with those adverse currents, but 
it delayed our progress by a combined couple of hours.  As a 
result, there was no way we'd arrive in Nantucket before dark. 
As it was, we had to work at it to make Vineyard Haven Harbor, on 
Martha's Vineyard, before dark.  All was well, though, and we 
anchored in about 12' of water and I went down for an early night 
of it.

While we'd had no success in the prior 24 hours, we put out our 
poles again once we left the harbor on Friday.  The forecast had 
called for 5-10 knots from the South, and our currents charts 
said that there would be a strong heading current very early in 
the day, so we slept in, sort of, not leaving until well after 
9AM.  Murphy 1, Perky 0; we motored for the first hour, with the 
positive current helping us along, as what little wind there was 
came from directly behind; with Perky humming along, we had 0 
knots apparent wind.  All of the other boats headed our way had 
furled and dropped their sails and were motoring for all they 
were worth, but it didn't make me feel any better to know that we 
weren't the only ones :{/)

The good news is that once we made our required turn after the 
first marker, the wind picked up.  So, we gave Perky the morning 
off, and our direction allowed us to have a beam reach nearly all 
the way to the Nantucket entrance.  With the lovely current 
helping, we made excellent time, and even better, just as we were 
turning toward the harbor entrance, we caught a medium sized 
bluefish.

Perfect!  He goes into the bucket for a while, and we sail out 
our rhumb line, and after we've secured the sails, as Lydia 
motors in, I filet him and we put him in marinade for later.

Nantucket has a vast harbor, and multiple amenities for the 
boating public.  Our reason for visiting the area is that Lydia's 
best adult buddy, whom she'd not seen for 20 years, has a 
daughter who lives here.  Totally coincidentally, her buddy was 
on the ferry which was on our tail as we entered the harbor, and 
they got to wave at each other as we sought out our anchorage and 
the ferry turned to go into its berth.

By 3:30, we were on the hook and lowering the dinghy for our ride 
to shore.  Miracle of miracles, after more than 5 months, perhaps 
more, because I believe the last many times the dinghy had been 
used (and the last time it was wet was over 5 months ago), we had 
the 6HP on it, our ancient 15HP outboard started on the first 
pull.

Ashore we went, where we found that the town maintains not only 
dumpsters, dinghy docks and other niceties, for free, there are 
also bathrooms and showers right at the dinghy dock.  That's a 
first in my experience.  While there are hundreds of rental 
mooring balls, there are also ample spaces to anchor, but the 
amenities at the town dock are for all to use.  This weekend we 
may do some daysailing, or sightseeing, or Lydia and her buddy 
may just closet themselves for the 20-year catch-up they've only 
started so far.

Oops...  Much to my surprise, after leaving Lydia to do her 
midnight madness with her buddy, when I return to the dinghy dock 
at 10:30, it's dead low tide, and our dinghy is only inches from 
being aground.  With the engine up, I poled out with an oar until 
the water got at least a few inches deep, then some more until I 
could get the engine lowered, and headed to my home.  Ahhh... 
The marvelous berth on Flying Pig welcomed me - but I wanted to 
get this out, first.  So, here I find myself at 3+ - perhaps I'll 
sleep in tomorrow (well, later this morning)...

No itinerary, no agenda, no schedule - but from here we'll likely 
go back to Martha's Vineyard, then on to Rhode Island and the 
Long Island Sound.  All in all this was a very pleasurable, 
nothing-broke sail for the last legs.  And, happily, as our boat 
flexed in the tacking we did, our floorboards are again loose 
enough to lift.  I'll continue to very-fine tune the rig, but at 
this point, I think we've achieved our objective in restraining 
the mast from moving, not over-tightened the boat, and all is 
well.

As I mentioned, of course, we're in Nantucket, having transited 
the Cape Cod canal.  Nantucket, as those of you who've been here, 
was the prior center of the US whaling industry.  Fishing is 
still big business hereabouts, and so, of course, are fish 
restaurants.

So, there's this new fish restaurant specializing in fish from 
all around the world.  They're calling themselves Cod Almighty, 
in honor of their proximity to Cape Cod, and some of the fish 
they specialize in...

To promote their opening, they're advertising that they're giving 
away Free World Atlasses (not too big on spelling, but I don't 
quibble for freebies).  Hurrying there, as we always want to add 
to our charts and maps, we arrive too late - or at least the guy 
at the counter sez he just gave away the last of the freebies. 
Imagine our disappointment - being the skinflint, economizer and 
dumpster diver I am, I'd really been looking forward to scoring a 
"Free Atlass" ...

"Wait a minute - I think I set one under the counter for someone 
who never came in for it..." he sez. Sure enough, he pulls out 
the last one.  Overjoyed with gratitude, I can't resist:

"Free Atlass, Free Atlass; Great Cod Almighty!  Our free 
Atlass..."

I know...

Anyway...

Stay tuned :{))

L8R

Skip

Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig  KI4MPC
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