Loos are mostly useful by racers who want to duplicate tension from a known
working point.
I've had my rig tuned a couple of times by pros, and most recently in the
course of new standing rigging.
I doubt that there are "specs" though if there were someone out there who's
been racing, they might have some info for your boat - based on their use. I
also considered getting a Loos, but was dissuaded after much discussion, in
several forums with knowledgeable people, mostly for the reason above.
Do fore and aft stays first, with sides loose (floppy, but tight enough to keep
the mast relatively vertical side-to-side, to put your masts in the proper rake
(if you have a preference). Then do the shrouds ("side stays") to make sure
you've got it/them vertical relative to the keel. Then the intermediates to
make sure it's in column.
Gently tight on each (e.g. with lube on the threads, hand tighten), then
tighten just a bit more with the same amount of turns (suggest half per time at
most). Do it in the water with some waiting time between adjustments so the FG
can flex. Make sure floor pulls can still come up! Mine, in the mast area,
didn't because I had them too tight... In general, my rigger who replaced the
standing rigging said my entire rig was way too tight. He wanted to see my
furler be able to be flopped a bit, just as a point of reference - and the
added staysail tensioned so as to make the vertical parts as close to as-used
as possible
Go sailing on a current free day with reliable wind. Go on a beam reach one
way, and shake the downwind shrouds and intermediates. If you think they're
too floppy, adjust a half turn, turn around and go the other way and do the
same (adjust by half a turn, but with the tension off due to downwind side).
Check your in-column performance; if you have a rake in the mast, it may not be
equal on the intermediates. Rinse, repeat.
The downwinds should be loose but not floppy - that is you should be able to
shake them, but not make them flail.
Having done the beam reach, do other points of sail until you're happy. Now,
if you're going to step and unstep each season, a Loos could help you get to
that point more quickly - but it won't tune the rig without that data point...
My simplistic measure, while we "work in" the new rig, is blue tape on the tops
of each turnbuckle. If I have to tighten, the tape will compress, giving me a
reliable indicator if one should loosen. I had a single intermediate which
constantly was working loose, but which was cured by just wiping some of the
lube off. When it's downwind, I can adjust it by hand, likewise, just as a
frame of reference. YMMV
HTH
L8R
Skip and crew, enjoying the Bahamas over WiFi 6.4 miles from our anchor
Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
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----- Original Message -----
From: Brewster Entertainment
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2009 7:53 PM
Subject: [Liveaboard] Rig Tension
I am raising the masts on my 35' ketch this week and I would appreciate any
insights or links for rigging tension specs and techniques.. I am considering
purchasing a Loos & Co. Model PT or 90/91 series tension gauge.
I could hire someone to do it, but I'm a DIY'er -- and I like to know
everything about my boat intimately.
Thanks in advance.
Tim
s/v Bliss
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