My splicing technique for stranded copper conductors is similar but slightly
different.
1. Strip the insulation from both ends. (Stripped length commensurate with
diameter as Norm stated)
2. Slide on a proper length and diameter of heat shrink tubing to be used
later.
3. Smear solder paste in ample amounts on both stripped ends.
4. Lap the two stripped ends and wrap tightly (bind) with small gauge solid
copper wire. (ie: #18)
5. Use a 200W-300W soldering iron, melt a little solder at the tip of the iron
and touch the joint to make the heat conduction better. Heat the copper splice
until the solder melts and penetrates the splice with capillary action. Do not
touch the solder to the iron but push it onto and let the heated splice melt
the solder. (just like when soldering copper pipe.
6. Let the splice cool, then wrap with electrical tape and center and shrink
the HS tubing.
7. Under full load check to verify that the new splice runs cooler than the
rest of the wire or at least the temperature difference is not noticeable.
Have to admit the procedure above is a bit of an overkill but splices ought to
be done very rarely anyway.
Norm has various methods for making soldered taps in heavy gauge wire or making
lugs out of tinned copper pipe, that the group may also find useful.
Best of luck
Ahmet
> From: [email protected]
> To: [email protected]
> Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 16:51:58 -0400
> Subject: [Liveaboard] Splices
>
>
>
>
> I went to the site that described the Western Union splice.
>
> On the rare occasion that I make a Western Union splice, I solder only the
> center section of the splice. For the record, I rarely do Western Union
> splices because the Western Union splice was for telephone and telegraph
> wires which are relatively thin signal wires.
>
> The illustration showing staggered splices has them too close together for
> safety. I often make staggered splices and I give them several wire
> diameters separation.
>
> I know that splices can be a source of vexation when they fail, but
> economics being a factor in my life, I cannot always have unspliced wires
> on board.
>
> Most splices I make are soldered lap splices. I lap the wires about three
> or four times their diameter, tin (permeate with solder) each wire, then
> lap and solder them together. I cover each conductor with shrink wrap
> tubing, and again the entire splice with shrink tubing. I have had no
> failures that I can recall and it helps a lot to have a slender splice when
> running wires through tight places.
>
>
> Norm
> S/V Bandersnatch
> Lying Gloucester MA
>
>
>
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