The question is, does ANYTHING connect to the battery terminal other than the shunt? Does the second bank's negative possibly go to the first bank? This can get more interesting. If it IS wired wrong, then the Link calculates a wrong Charge Efficiency Factor (CEF) causing even more errors. Check that NOTHING goes to the negative term on the batteries, everything must go to the other side of the shunt, this includes engine, inverter, charger. Check to be sure that the shunts each have a good ground wire to a main buss. These can only be from the non battery side of the shunt. If you don't find anything there, scroll through the menu, using your owner's manual, the CEF should be around 90%. 100% or less than ~80% indicates a wiring problem still. Lee Haefele ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Lynch" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2011 7:01 PM Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Any experience with the Link 2000?
>I think the problem has been with me since the beginning, but I can't be > sure. The old memory isn't what it once was, if I recall correctly, > which I probably don't. What were we talking about? > > The Link 2000 is a lot more complex than an amphour meter. It is a > complete battery reporting and control system. Coupled with the Heart > charger/inverter, it is suppose to keep eveything working as required. > > When operating away from shore power and not using the inverter, the > meter (LCD) can report the battery voltage, the current draw (or charge) > and the number of amphours. Of course you can reset the amphours at any > time. While I'm not sitting in front of the panel all the time, it does > seem that I'm charging one battery and discharging the other. I have > 190 watts of Solar panel connected. So I suppose the batteries could be > so unbalanced as to charge one and not the other, but they were bought > at the same time and have the same code date. The bank consists of 4 6V > golf cart batteries connected as two 12V banks. I guess I'll split off > the two banks and run one at a time without charging and see where they > are after 24 hours. That may give me a hint. > > Once I've determined what I'm saying is true, I'll give the reset to > factory specs a try. Good thought. > > I've been using the "take it apart and put it back together to make it > work" since I discovered the principle at age 14. I think I've been > about 50% successful. > > By the way, I think I'll be at Manderin Holiday Marina Friday for a > bottom job. Hope to get to see you if you're going to be around. I was > talking with the fellow on the boat next to me here at St Simons and he > spent 4 months last year in that marina. He's a big racer. Anyway he > said it was inexpensive but far down the river. I realized where it was > and mentioned you to him. He said he knew exactly what boat was yours. > He didn't think he'd met you however. > > I'll be there "Allah willing and the creeks don't rise". Except that > saying is probably not very PC these days. > > Jim. > > [email protected] wrote: >> Jim, >> >> Actually, I am not familiar with the Link 2000. I have an E-Meter, the >> little round sort of amphour meter. It will only read one battery bank >> so >> I really don't know about the two bank type. >> >> My amphour meter does not connect to my inverter, it connects to the >> battery terminals for power and for voltage sensing (two separate pairs >> of >> wires) and to the shunt only so your setup might be different from mine. >> >> Since you leave the big switch in Both almost always perhaps you could >> simply do away with the second bank feature and combine the battery banks >> into one bank. >> >> Since the amphour meter seems to ignore one bank when reading amphours, >> yet >> read both banks correctly reading amps when charging, it would seem that >> the correct info is getting to the amphour meter. >> >> Perhaps there is something wrong with the setting up the meter. Years >> ago >> my Radar instructor taught us to troubleshoot puzzling problems on >> complex >> heavy ship's radar by doing an alignment by the manual. The problem >> would >> become more apparent when we couldn't make a certain setting. >> >> Did it work properly at one time? Did anything happen around the time it >> started not reading the amphours for one bank? >> >> It very well could be a bad amphour meter. Perhaps you should send it >> (and >> the shunts) to the factory for testing. >> >> One thing I usually do if something stops working properly is to take it >> apart and put it back together again. Sometimes there is a bad >> connection >> somewhere that is not obvious. >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Liveaboard mailing list > [email protected] > To adjust your membership settings over the web > http://liveaboardonline.com/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard > To subscribe send an email to [email protected] > > To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] > The archives are at http://www.liveaboardonline.com/pipermail/liveaboard/ > > To search the archives > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > The Mailman Users Guide can be found here > http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list [email protected] To adjust your membership settings over the web http://liveaboardonline.com/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to [email protected] To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] The archives are at http://www.liveaboardonline.com/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
