I've found that if I'm taking apart a joint or re-attaching one that has come apart, it's the combination of heat and moisture that seems to re-liquify hide glue. I just put a barely damp cloth over the joint and use a warm tacking iron. With the addition of moisture, not that much heat is needed. The glue softens up quickly and the joint can be re-taped or re-clamped; it cools and dries to be as good as new. So maybe if you live in the deep South where it gets hot and humid, this would be a concern. (Another reason why I'll never move there ;-) ) I remember last summer when it was very hot in Europe, one LuteNet participant writing from there complained that his glue joints weren't drying properly in the humid heat.
I've also tried warming a hide glue joint dry in a microwave (as a test, not with an instrument!). Eventually the glue will break down, bubble, and char. But I think it's almost at the flash point when that happens. So you should never microwave your lute, at least not at a high temperature! Tim Motz > > >---- Original Message ---- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: Steel-string acoustic guitar glue. >Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 10:59:02 -0500 (CDT) > >> >>> not prone to creep over time like the aliphatic resins, but may be >a >>> little more susceptible to weakening at high temperature. >> >>Here's a guy who tested hide glue and aliphatic glue in his oven, >with a >>fair amount of scientific rigor (careful record-keeping, timer, >>thermometer, photos, coherent write-up, etc). He concluded that >hide glue >>is not deficient compared with aliphatic glue at 200 degrees Farenhe >it. >> >>http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Data/Materials/GlueTest/glue >test.html >> >> >> >>
