Jon Murphy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said: > As to the shaver, one can get two double sided planer blades at Sears for > about $11
interesting, I am griiiiiiiiiinding away my patrience making one from 3/16 in flat- ground tool steel stock. you even get mounting holes your way, perhaps even slotted holes, I have to file those (yet). > As to the turning, I've been following Davids plan. I can't see the > rechucking that Dana is doing. difference in lathes, mine is an engine lathe, intended for working metal. I dont have the usual wood-turning centers for it, only the three and four-jaw chucks, so I do what I can with those. > formica (couldn't find a piece cheap > enough, so I bought a stick on floor tile for about 89 cents Look for scraps at a cabinetmaker. Consider using thin plastic 'glass', scraps of which should be available at many hardware stores. Some hardware stores sell styrene to hobbyists for projects, this is also suitable and easily worked (being a hobbyist I have some of course). > So let me suggest the process. First round the blank (not necessarily fully, > as one can make the blank thinner on one axis where the head is flattened to > save wood). Perhaps I work at a slower speed, I find it necessary to have full diameter to avoid chip-out on the finished surface and to keep control of files when shaping the profile. > Never rechuck unless really necessary. a good general maxim, but when the initial chuckings are for roughing it works well enough. My pegs are not completely coaxial with their shafts, but the two are parallel and close enough that the eye doesnt see it, or the hand feel it when tuning. > > I'm using cocobolo for the pegs, and I bought some "eye wash" that is needed > after turning that. I hope you also work with a vacuum claener sucking up the dust, wear a suitable dust mask, and keep pets and humans out of the room while are working that stuff. To get on or off this list see list information at http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
