Something that I haven't yet seen in this thread:

The string consists of 2 segments: a) between the peg and the nut, b) 
between the nut and the bridge.
When there is friction at the nut, it's possible to turn the peg 
slightly in either direction, changing the tension of the string 
between the peg and the nut, but without any effect on the tension of 
the string between the nut and the bridge. You can finely adjust the 
tuning by tugging the string with your fingers so as to ease it over 
the nut, and help in equalizing the tension on either side of the nut.


Miles Dempster

On Friday, May 13, 2005, at 12:45  PM, Dr. Marion Ceruti wrote:

> Hello Tim,
>
> Good ideas! One way to avoid many truns around the peg without
> cutting the string is to coil up the excess string at the back of the
> pegbox. I have seen this done with requinto strings also. It is
> better than cutting the strings because by leaving them long you
> can put them on other smaller instruments if they break. For example,
> I can use a ren lute first string on a mandolino because the pitch
> is an octave higher and the string length is exactly half (30 vs. 60 
> cm).
>
> Pegs tend to settle into particular positions where they like to be and
> it is hard sometimes to get them to go in between to get the right
> pitch. Twisting the peg back and forth tends to dislodge the peg out
> of these "catch positions." Also before tightening a string, put some 
> slack
> into it, twist it with the lower tension and then tighten it above the 
> pitch
> then finally let some out to ease into the right pitch. There are all
> different variations of this technique. Main thing is to turn your
> face away from the strings when you tighten them or wear goggles.
> Some people have had strings break and hit them in the face.
>
> Cheers,
> Marion
> safety first.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: timothy motz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: May 13, 2005 5:08 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
> Subject: Re: thanks!
>
> Derek,
> I've used Ivory soap in the grooves on my nut.  Same idea as beeswax.
> Another reason for the non-linear tuning can be that you have excess
> string wound around the peg in an irregular pattern.  So that as you
> turn the peg, you (in effect) have a peg with a changing diameter,
> leading to changes in how much string is taken up by one turn.
>
> You would think that a nice even turn of the peg would get you to the
> right amount of tension and the right pitch, but sometimes just
> twisting the peg back and forth seems to get to the right point more
> quickly.  I've also found that if I tighten the peg to above the
> correct pitch and then take it back down, I get it in tune more
> smoothly.
>
> Tim
>>
>>
>> ---- Original Message ----
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> To: lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
>> Subject: Re: thanks!
>> Date: Fri, 13 May 2005 00:14:22 -0700
>>
>>>
>>> Just before you try everything at once :^) I prefer beeswax to
>> graphite
>>> since it doesn't leave black marks on your nut. But definitely make
>>> sure your grooves are round (and a slightly greater radius than the
>>> string) first.
>>>
>>> Sean Smith
>>>
>>> On May 13, 2005, at 12:04 AM, Derek Monahan wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thank to everyone who respnded to my inquiry! I am
>>>> very grateful for your knowledge, and that this
>>>> community exists. I now have a wealth of information
>>>> (comparatively) about tuning issues. I will try everything.
>>>>
>>>> www.myspace.com/deflatormouse
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>            
>>>> Yahoo! Mail
>>>> Stay connected, organized, and protected. Take the tour:
>>>> http://tour.mail.yahoo.com/mailtour.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To get on or off this list see list information at
>>>> http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>


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