Rob

   I have checked out your website.  Great philosophy - and your workshop
   is something I can only dream about; it looks fantastic!

   I am an amateur maker, like you were, with just a few lutes under my
   belt.  I am restoring a ren 10 course, and want to try something new,
   and would appreciate a few tips:

   First, I want to add one of those 'heart'/'spade'-shaped inlay designs
   at the bottom end of the soundboard.  They are a common feature, and I
   have a vague idea of how to do this but a couple tips would be useful.
   I have some 0.8mm ebony veneer, so presume this will be ideal?  Main
   question is how I can cut out the recess on an already thin
   soundboard.  I am determined to have a go, but do not want to trash the
   soundboard now that it is fitted!

   Secondly, I want to retrofit a treble string, single mini-riser on the
   peg box.  The neck and pegbox are fitted and the pegbox has a solid
   back.  Is there a simple and reasonably elegant way to retrofit
   something like this without it looking like it was made using cereal
   packets?

   I hope you or some of the other forum members can help.

   Cheers

   Mike

   > Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 12:33:00 -0500
   > To: [email protected]; [email protected]
   > From: [email protected]
   > Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: lute
   >
   > Just remember to not try to get the ribs to final thickness before
   > assembly of the body. Final thickness - and note, rib thickness is
   not
   > all that important, it will play fine with a paper mache body, I
   know,
   > I did it - is actually achieved after the body is glued up through
   > scraping of the interior and sanding/scraping of the outside.
   >
   >
   >
   > Rob Dorsey
   >
   > [1]http://LuteCraft.com
   > __________________________________________________________________
   >
   > From: Martyn Hodgson [mailto:[email protected]]
   > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 11:00 AM
   > To: Rob Dorsey; Lute builder Dmth
   > Subject: Re: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: lute
   >
   >
   >
   > If you don't have a thickness sander (the Old Ones didn't either, so
   > don't worry) simply clamp one end onto your flat bench top, and using
   a
   > small plane (I use a low angle one-handed plane), plane to the
   required
   > thickness (ie to allow some trimming and shaping on the mould). For
   > rippled sycamore and other cross-grained woods plane at right angles
   > (or thereabouts - you'll find the best angle by trial) to the
   direction
   > of grain (ie across the width) using an old dummy rib tacked to the
   > flat surface as an edge stop. Finish, of course, with a scraper.
   >
   > MH
   > --- On Mon, 26/1/09, Rob Dorsey <[email protected]> wrote:
   >
   > From: Rob Dorsey <[email protected]>
   > Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: lute
   > To: "'robert fallis'" <[email protected]>, "'Jon Murphy'"
   > <[email protected]>, [email protected], "'Brod Mac'"
   > <[email protected]>
   > Date: Monday, 26 January, 2009, 2:32 PM
   > I use a bandsaw to resaw the stock to approximate thickness (about
   3.5mm)
   > and then a thickness sander to take it down to 1.8mm. The biggest
   mistake an
   > amateur makes in rib thicknessing is to make the too thin. They bend
   nicely
   > but you have left no "meat" on the rib for scraping, sanding and edge
   > corrections. For start leave them at 2.0mm until you have a number of
   lutes
   > under your belt.
   >
   > Rob Dorsey
   > http://LuteCraft.com
   >
   > -----Original Message-----
   > From: robert fallis [mailto:[email protected]]
   > Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 3:43 AM
   > To: Jon Murphy; [email protected]; Brod Mac
   > Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: lute
   >
   >
   > > For my thicknesses I resawed on the bandsaw, then I tried both the
   > > "Luthier's Friend" sanding device and the Wagner
   > Saf-T-Planer - both
   > > on the drill press. The final thickness probably should be with a
   > > cabinet scraper -
   >
   > one way to use a planner to thickness the ribs is, to plane a good
   face on
   > the rib blank.
   > then tape(double sided tape)this good side down to a piece of ply
   wood,
   > mdf,so that you have a thicker piece of wood, it's planing 2mm thick
   bits
   > of
   > wood that the planer won't do.. then plane that till it is nearer the
   > thickness you want and finish with a scraper..
   >
   > bob
   > --
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   >
   >
   >
   > To get on or off this list see list information at
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   >
   >
   >
   >
   > --
   >
   > References
   >
   > 1. http://LuteCraft.com/
   >
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