Honestly, I'm really not trying to start trouble but...you're saying that you know what the strength of your shop mixed, recycled (and don't try to tell us you don't re-heat the pot) dry hide crystals of also unknown age is?? By what measure and to what standard? Got data? Do share.
Seriously a premium modern glue is at least equal to and arguably stronger than 400 year old ox hoof and fish head glue. And that includes Titebond liquid hide glue. A quick sniff of most glues satisfies the freshness and I would love to see empirical evidence of failures including "creep" which I reckon is a throwback to guitar making, particularly the steel stringed ones. Friends don't let friends use any glue on an instrument which cures to a plastic state and at lute tensions, creep is a theoretical phenomenon. The only hide glue I use is for the top. And this because it may needs be removed when - notice, not if - someone drops the thing on the hardwood floor. Best, Rob Dorsey http://LuteCraft.com -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 12:14 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: glue On Thu, Feb 5, 2009, Brod Mac <[email protected]> said: > for attaching a peg box, what gule would be best, hide or a really good > cabinet makers glue such as titebond III. aslo, anyone used titebond > hideglue? its liquid form, wondering if it is good at all. thanks > > __________________________________________________________________ Avoid comercial liquid hide glue; it has a shelf life and you have no idea how long it has been sitting before you walked into the store, you also have no clue as to what strength it is. I prefer hot hide glue to anything modern, except for ACC (Superglue) which has uses in fixing cracks. Hide glue made the originals... Dont like modern 'plastic' glues because of creep and repair issues. Glue is like religion... -- Dana Emery To get on or off this list see list information at http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
