On Wed, Mar 25, 2009, Daniel Winheld <[email protected]> said:

> To the Collective Mind of Cosmic Lute Wisdom- especially the luthiers 
> amongst us- What is a good finishing product to put on a lute/vihuela 
> neck? 

Not an easy question to answer.  You might do some research on finishing
before proceeding, technique is important with some methods, and surface
preparation is important to all of them.

Safety is a concern, most of the solvents are not something to be
breathing casually, yet, you need to be close to the work so you can see
and touch it.  A hood is used comercially (OSHA regulations oblige it),
but many small shops get by without, depending on fans and the like. 
Moderate air movement is good, but not a roaring gale; you dont want dust
in the airstream which will coat the product; and you also dont want the
airstream redecorating the walls, furniture, books, pets etc downstream of
where you are working.

The maker should be contacted if you can, to find out what he used on
adjacent surfaces so you can be compatible with it.  If the neck was
veneered, you need to consider the glue used, whatever solvents are used
in your coatings can affect the bond in some cases.  A barrier, such as
shellac, will help prevent that.

Density variations and wild figureation of some woods is best seen when
emphasized by the application of dye, this includes cherry, figured
maple/sycamore, walnut and many others.The dye is often mixed into an
undercoat, such as shellac.  Sometimes an undyed layer of shellac is
applied to moderate the accentuation; perhaps better matching a plainer
wood used nearby.

Faux finish can be used to decorate plain wood, perhaps some interlaced
vines might be painted on; perhaps a coat of arms and motto, perhaps some
arabeque borders.  A Barrier underneath the paint will prevent it wicking
into the wood grain.

Note that the formulation of shellac has changed since the time lutes were
'golden', once it was a natural product, derived from the crushed shells
of lac beetles.  now it is a plastic.  The solvent has always been alcohol
as best I know, and the white variet6y is the base product, orange/yellow
shellac is white plus a dye.  If you work with tinted shellac you wil
discover the density variations in your wood, and may not like the
'blotching' it reveals.  An undercoat of white shellac mitigates that.

Lacquer can be brushed on, but is far more easily applied with spray
equipment; good spraying gear is expensive and requires diligent
maintenace.  Many different products are available for cars and furniture
(and other applications).  You have a choice of technologys, and should do
some reading.  There are forums where guitarmakers can be consulted which
have archived discussions as well as live.  There are books in your local
library, and also from online vendors (Stew-Mac).
alcohol.

> I had to scrape down the neck of my vihuela, now it's time to 
> seal & protect it; and wonder what, especially, could stand up to the 
> abuse of sliding gut fret knots the best? 

The maker of the 8c I own used french polish to apply several layers of
shellac to the body, and presumably also the neck (both are lightly
figured maple).  I think the fingerboard is rosewood, not sure if it is
finished at all.

> I don't care about historically informed finishes per se

Consider that you are closer to the historical finish technology than to
more modern ones, spraying equipment is expensive, requires diligent
maintenance, has a learning curve, and can get you in trouble with
landlord, neighbors, and the wife.

-- 
Dana Emery




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