> Dana,
> I've had a devil of a time using go-bars with lute bracing.  Lute braces
> are narrow and it's difficult to position the go bar so it doesn't flip a
> brace over.  If the pressure is even a little bit off-axis, there goes
> your brace.

rather like balancing a caber on top of a board set on edge.

Dont have to use a rod, use a thin stick, put a shallow saw kerf into the
end.  Preshape the ends some so you have thin flat ends to begin with.  J-
braces below the bridge might be spanned by a short wide bit with one or
two gobars in the middle of the curve.

Mind you, this is all speculation on my part, based on other shopwork I
have done.

I generally use whatever bits of scrap I have handy when building jigs and
fixtures, they all look rather scruffy as a result; often my jigs are
completely adfhoc and dont get saved, the components just get thrown back
under the bench and reused.  In the organ shop we had a long bench on one
wall for rough cross cutting and dadoe work, two radial saw were set up,
one on the end for dadoes, the other in the middle for cross cutting.  A
fence ran down the middle, behind the fence was an area that collected odd
bits of wood and whatever sawdust escaped collection; a bucket under the
middle was the official collector of offcut blocks, but they would go
either way on whim.  Cabinets overhead on the wall for spare blades, tools
for the saws, routers and bits, planes and other odd tools and supplies of
course.  Periodically the boss declared the odd bits had to go, usually
when prospective customers were being woo'd and a tour was scheduled.

> shop-made wooden ones?  I think the original versions were hazel rods.

Oak and poplar for me; whatever is handy and gets the job done.  Split
bamboo if any grew near, no intention of planting any tho, already have
enough trouble with rampant ivy, wild rose, and bittersweet; I understand
that bamboo has super deep roots (6 feet at least) and is impossible to
get gone once it settles in.

--
Dana Emery



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