I concur with Howard on Japanese chisels, the lamination is sort of an
analog of the Samurai sword - the cutting edge is softer so as to not be
brittle and can be sharpened with a touch up, the body is hard to
maintain form.
There is another advantage, the grooved back allows one to sharpen only
the back of the chisel so one is bringing the "edge to the bevel". It
does limit the life of the chisel, once one reaches the groove it is
over - but that could take a very long time - and the alternative of
taking metal from the bevel also cuts back the blade. It is not that
they are made in Japan, it is the Japanese format - just as the Japanese
format for hand saws is better. The "cut on the pull stroke" of the
Japanese saws is much more accurate than our "cut on the push" as the
blade doesn't bend on the cut stroke. The Japs say it is because of
their belief in drawing the wood to their heart, I say it is just a
better way to make an accurate cut. The Western "push saw" is more
efficient for heavy cutting, you can put your weight into it, the
Japanese "pull saw" is more accurate for precise cutting.
The same applies to the chisels, the Western solid steel chisel is a
blunt instrument (no pun intended, or maybe a bit of one). The Japanese
laminated chisel is a bit more subtle. One maintains the edge rather
than sharpening it (I'm a woodturner, lots of complex gauges and
chisels). A few strokes on the back with a small diamond hone (medium
grade) and you have the edge back (only use the hone on the part that is
flat, don't waste effort on the edges of the groove. I am familiar with
Japan Woodworker, but I don't think they are an OEM - I've bought my
Japanese chisels from Lee Valley - and I think they use the same source
(and have found the Lee Valley prices to be better sometimes).
May I add that I do wood carving, and as such have some carving chisels.
Again the Japanese format is best, and Lee Valley my supplier (they are
about $7 apiece, these are small blades for close work). I suggest that
all instrument makers among you look at the carving tools segments of
the catalogs - Lee Valley and Woodcraft are the best for these. But for
a combination of chisels and carving chisels I'd say Lee Valley has the
best variety - and I can vouch for the company as to their service and
backup. They are an OEM, they make the Veritas tools (all my planes),
and a vendor of other tools. I'm not an advertiser for them, I don't buy
any woodturning tools from them. But in the area of chisels, wood
carving tools, planes and specialty planes I'd not buy elsewhere without
first checking Lee Valley/Veritas. Their planes are "home designed", as
are the Lie Nielson. The Lie Nielson are a bit more expensive, but both
are expensive. I think they are equivalent.
Again may I emphasize that I don't represent Lee Valley (and, in fact
haven't ordered from them for quite a while as my purchases have tended
toward wood turning. I will only make this comment. When, some years
ago, I wanted a left hand skew carving chisel not in their Japanese set
they looked into it. They did a special order from the maker (OEM), and
charged me the price for the standard. I like that. Nothing against
Japan Woodworker, I've dealt with them once or twice - but did find some
of their comparative prices a bit high compared to Lee Valley.
Best, Jon
On 12/2/2010 1:58 PM, Howard Bryan wrote:
The best chisel investment I've made was a set of Japanese laminated
chisels. I also bought the Marples, found that I was spending far
more time sharpening them than using them. Those from Japan
Woodworker have been great! Not cheap, but great! There are several
suppliers, some with pretty inexpensive stuff, so be careful. Japan
Woodworker does describe their products accurately, so I would rely on
them.
Howard Bryan
www.hbryan.com
On 12/2/2010 1:11 PM, Andrew Hartig wrote:
Hi all,
I'm looking to upgrade some of my starting lutherie tools,
specifically my chisels (Marples Blue Chip -- which seem to have
their edges chip out far too often!). I'm wondering what type of
chisels others recommend, including specifics around shapes/design,
edge-holding capability, hardness, etc. that they have found useful
for lutherie.
Advice, anyone?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
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