What about applying beeswax? I've tried this before, but I am not sure it if I did it correctly. Didn't hurt the top...
Thanks to all that replied to my enquiry! 2011/3/24 Martyn Hodgson <[1][email protected]> Use stand 'oil'. but eschew modern 'stand oil' which is just boiled linseed oil with chemical driers added and far too thin and will penetrate the wood. Proper Stand oil has the consistency of very thick treacle, does not penetrate into the wood but forms a very thin coating which dries hard in a few days to a completely natural look (ie no obvious sheen or coating). If you can't buy the real thing get some good raw linseed oil, pour into a dish and leave it to.... ......stand. A few months will result in the required consistency. It's far too thick to paint on with a brush and must be applied with a rubber. Linseed oil was a very common medium from the earliest times and has a tried and trusted track record (unlike perhaps this modern wax made from crude oil distallation products) MH --- On Thu, 24/3/11, Edward Mast <[2][email protected]> wrote: From: Edward Mast <[3][email protected]> Subject: [LUTE] Re: Wax To: "Bruno Correia" <[4][email protected]> Cc: "List LUTELIST" <[5][email protected]> Date: Thursday, 24 March, 2011, 12:50 Hi Bruno, Good question, and since I don't know the answer (Lundberg doesn't give mixing instructions in his book) I simply went to the hardware store where I found a carnauba wax in turpentine (no bees wax, though) already mixed and used that. Seems to work fine to protect the top in the area where there's a bit of wear from the right hand of the previous owner (I bought my instrument used). It does add some gloss, but I don't mind that. Perhaps the addition of beeswax would give a more matte finish. On Mar 23, 2011, at 10:47 PM, Bruno Correia wrote: > Hi Edward, > > Interesting, I'll check the formula, if there is one... > > Just for curiosity, how do you mix these waxes? > > > > > 2011/3/23 Edward Mast <[1][6][email protected]> > Bruno, > > I'm not familiar with this wax. But Robert Lundberg - in his book "Historical Lute Construction" - gives two formulas for a wax to use on the top. The simplest one is: 2 parts beeswax, 1 part carnauba wax, 6 parts turpentine. Perhaps before buying, you can find what the formula of the Renaissance wax is. > > > On Mar 23, 2011, at 5:32 PM, Bruno Correia wrote: > > > Is this product (Ranaissance wax) advisable to use on the top of the > > lute? I think somebody mentioned it in the list... > > > > > > > > [1][2][7]http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro- Cr ystalli > > ne/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300899218&sr=8-1 > > > > -- > > > > References > > > > 1. [3][8]http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Cry stalli ne/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300899218&sr=8-1 > > > > > > To get on or off this list see list information at > > [4][9]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html > > -- -- References 1. [10]http://uk.mc263.mail.yahoo.com/mc/[email protected] 2. [11]http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Cryst alli 3. [12]http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Crystall ine/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300899218&sr=8-1 4. [13]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html -- References 1. mailto:[email protected] 2. mailto:[email protected] 3. mailto:[email protected] 4. mailto:[email protected] 5. mailto:[email protected] 6. mailto:[email protected] 7. http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Cr 8. http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Crystalli 9. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html 10. http://uk.mc263.mail.yahoo.com/mc/[email protected] 11. http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Crystalli 12. http://www.amazon.com/Picreator-65mL-can-Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300899218&sr=8-1 13. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
