Sorry; here's the link to the pics mentioned in the C64 retrobrite thread: https://www.flickr.com/photos/callidae/sets/72157634490134812/with/9210251331/
m ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Stein" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [M100] Removing scratches from plastic protector for LCD? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gardner" <[email protected]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [M100] Removing scratches from plastic protector for LCD? > ...Retrobright... > > I've heard it both ways - What's the right way, Mike? > > ... Actually, John, I don't have any personal experience or opinion about retrobrite although I have followed many lengthy and spirited discussions on various forums and mail lists; I just wanted to point out that as you say, while many people share Brian's opinion that it doesn't last there are also quite few people who swear by it. I was being facetious when I suggested that Brian might be doing it wrong, but perhaps the slight differences in various peoples' recipes do indeed make a really substantial difference in the outcome. As to making the plastic brittle, quite a few plastic cases are notorious for becoming extremely brittle with age (without retrobrite), so it's hard to say whether it would have happened anyway or whether some types of plastic are susceptible to this effect while others are not. It does seem to be one of the most controversial and polarized topics across most of the vintage computer forums, almost in the league of ESP, NDEs and UFOs ;-). Anyway, as I said, I don't think it's as clear cut as a sweeping "It doesn't last and makes the plastic brittle"; Here's a current thread from a Commodore list (retrobriting, painting, and even new custom molded cases are pretty popular among the C64 crowd): ------------------------------------------------------- ----- Original Message ----- From: --- To: CBM hackers. Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 7:58 AM Subject: Re: Retrobright My experience with Retrobrighting was with oxy laundry bleach and a fluorescent black-light. I took a few photos HERE. The temperature of the water has to exceed 55c for it to release peroxide, and it took 3 cycles, with about 400G of oxy bleach in each batch. The discolouration of the plastic was more severe than the photo indicates (but not as bad as I've seen it), and the result whiter than it looks in the final assembled photo, but the difference was striking. Unlike some reports the bleaching has held after 4 years and the machine still looks great. The rather ghoulish unearthly blue glow is of course due to the fluorescent dye in modern bleaches to make things "Whiter than white". I prefer a lighter hand with things like retrobrighting, and don't aim for gleaming pristine newness at all costs. label damage, blotchiness and surface damage can make matters worse: something I have, unfortunately experienced. I also have a natural wariness of caustic chemicals. Julian Hi, My experience with the plastic wrap is that it causes patch effects. I would not recommend that. It is better to keep your eyes on it and reapply retrobright when it dries. When it is on the sun you will see the color change and know when it is ready. Istvan From: xxx Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2017 9:18 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Retrobright Hi I have the different recipes for Retrobright Hydrogen Peroxide OXY Clean Corn Starch for thickener Then paint on with paintbrush wrap with plastic wrap. Let sit in sun and rotate case etc, but how long and when would I need to rotate plastic? Terry Raymond
