I have an interesting NEC PC-8300 with a custom 2NDROM by VSI Corp. I figured 
I'd put together a few images in case someone's as curious as I am.

Previously attempted to send as an attachment. Here is a google drive post 
instead.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1w7hzeDeT7mQNhpwPX9Y8bbHjtluwC7Ae

> On June 26, 2018 at 4:39 PM [email protected] wrote:
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: nn - getting back involved. (Brian White)
> 2. NEC Low battery light update (Kurt McCullum)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2018 03:08:35 -0400
> From: Brian White <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: [M100] nn - getting back involved.
> Message-ID:
> <cao0vv2b74dsswyktqpuik0srqrqxoocbvt9shv77vlc1p8-...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have about 100 of the old original carriers if anyone wants any. The
> carriers aren't really that useful or valuable since, aside from the fact
> that they are replaceable by printing (2 different versions even) only the
> Model 600 uses a standard 27C256 pinout in the option rom socket. For 100,
> 102, & 200, the only thing a carrier is good for is if you broke an
> original carrier on a real option rom with the borkded pinout.
>
> For model 600, you can burn a standard 27C256 and stick it in a carrier and
> pop it in the 600. So the carriers are useful for Model 600.
> But there is almost no romware to play with and little documentation to
> make some from scratch for the 600.
> There are exactly 2 rom images available to be examined and hacked on, and
> a little bit of info on the format of a rom, but I think not quite enough.
>
> For burning your own roms on anything but 600, you need a module like REX
> or Figronix or ROMBO which don't fit in a carrier. They are their own
> carrier and go right into the socket.
>
> (Unless the NECs also use a standard pinout? I don't have one to double
> check.)
>
> Now the *sockets* are a little more interesting because:
> * you could repair a damaged socket in a 100/102/200/600/NEC
> * you can use one as part of a programming adapter for re-flashing a
> Figtronix module in an eprom burner
> * using same programming adapter to read an old option rom in a eprom burner
> * as a jig to supply power to a REX while flashing it's CPLD (IE, while
> building your own REX from scratch, or perhaps reflashing it from 100/102
> to 200 firmware)
>
> I have a bunch of those too and am handing them out in ones/twos to anyone
> who wants one for free.
> I'm not selling them, just handing them out, so that I can dribble them out
> to as many different people as possible for as long as possible.
> I don't have an absolte rule like "max 2 per person" but that's the limit
> I've been doing so far. But I'm open to hearing why someone might need a
> few more . Like say you are repairing M100's for other people and it would
> be useful stock for doing that, or you actually have 3 or more M100's with
> broken sockets, or whatever.
>
> --
> bkw
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 3:18 PM Josh Malone <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > > ps: Are there any other club100 peeps on the east coast?
> >
> > Central Virginia in the house! :)
> >
> > And I'd probably be down for a couple chip carriers even though I have
> > a REX. Lemme know.
> >
> > -Josh
> >
>
>
> --
> bkw
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2018 09:06:21 -0700
> From: Kurt McCullum <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [M100] NEC Low battery light update
> Message-ID:
> <1530029181.3369499.1421060320.66fe2...@webmail.messagingengine.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> A couple weeks ago I was asking about the low battery light on my NEC when 
> using rechargeable batteries. The problem was that after about 45 minutes the 
> low battery light would come on because the voltage difference (1.2 vs 1.5) 
> of Alkaline vs NiMh batteries. Originally I was going to look at the 
> power?supply itself to see if I could replace a resistor so that the light 
> would come on at a lower voltage. I opted to leave the power supply alone and 
> focus on the battery.
>
> I bought?ten 1/3AA NiMh batteries and built a battery pack. There are two 
> banks of five 1/3AA batteries and two spacers(S1 & S2). The ending battery 
> pack looks like this:
> + -
> | S1 S2 |
> | | | |
> | | | |
> --- ---
>
> S1 has a wire that goes to ground, and S2 has a wire going to positive. The 
> two 5 battery banks are in parallel and each bank has a capacity of 300mah, 
> giving a total capacity of 600mah. The batteries that I took our of the 
> original NiCd back were 500mah so it's very similar to the original which was 
> rated to give 5.5 hours. I'm still testing but so far the battery light issue 
> has gone away. I need to see how much time I have left once the low battery 
> light comes on because rechargeable batteries fall off rather quickly. 
> Voltage on the pack is 6.4v when charged. Very similar to what new Alkaline 
> batteries would give.
>
> A Regular 4 battery NiMh battery pack has a much longer run time but the 
> problem is that you never know when you are almost out of power. The low 
> battery light is on almost the entire life of the battery.
>
> I'll keep you posted on my testing results.
>
> Kurt
>
>
>
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