Solder braid/wick has generally worked well for me. You may need to add some flux to it to really get it to wick properly. If you don’t have any flux, adding some fresh rosin core solder works too.
- Kevin > On Sep 17, 2018, at 10:38 PM, Ian Eure <[email protected]> wrote: > > Desoldering the battery isn’t a big deal. Start by clipping it > out, > leaving just the legs soldered in. This makes the whole procedure > much safer and easier. You really don’t want to sink heat into a > battery, it’s an explosion risk. > > Once the body of the battery is gone, use needle-nose pliers to > grab > the leg on the top side while heating from the solder side of the > board. Pull gently on the pliers once the solder melts, and the > leg > will come right out. Then you clear whatever solder is left in > the > holes, repeat for the other side, and solder in the new battery. > > If you have no tools at all, my preferred method is to heat up the > through hole, then smack the board on the workbench. The momentum > will make the solder splash right out. Crude, but effective. > > You can also use a soldapullt, this is very easy when the battery > is > removed. Put it on the parts side while heating from the bottom > and > pop it when the solder melts. > > I’ve never had any luck with desoldering braid, so I don’t > recommend > it. > > A good soldering iron and the right tip make all the difference in > the world. It’s scary how much better it is. I’m using an older > Hakko station, the current model is the FX-888D. They last > forever. > I got mine used, have had it for at least six years, do an > above-average amount of soldering, and haven’t even needed to > replace > the tip. Hard to beat for the money: https://amzn.to/2QCsWh3 > > Another option is the TS100. This is an open source iron that > runs > off a 12v wall wart. There are a jillion manufacturers, and they > all > sell for around $60: https://amzn.to/2OyQvWP -- Once you factor an > extra tip and power supply into the equation, it’s pretty close to > the > $100 mark, so you might be better off with the Hakko. > > Those are the top end of the low end solde station market. Just > about > anything cheaper is junk. Those cheapo Weller and Aoyue stations > are > just awful, don’t waste your money on them. > > No matter the iron, I’ve found the screwdriver shaped or "chisel" > tip > to work best for me. It holds the solder great and transfers heat > much better due to the large surface area you can put in contact > with > the part. For the FX-888D, T18-D16 is what you want: > https://amzn.to/2QDYcw0 -- For the TS100, the TS-D24: > https://amzn.to/2QBBFA1 > > Josh Malone writes: > >> Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a >> fair amount >> of heat sink there. >> >> I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you >> could damage >> the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking >> for someone >> to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? >> >> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill >> <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering >>> the new one >>> in is pretty simple.. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright >>> <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>>> Hey gang >>>> >>>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the >>>> ghost, so have >>>> ordered this: >>>> >>>> >>>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>>> >>>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have >>>> negligible >>>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely >>>> destroy the >>>> machine? >>>> >>>> cheers >>>> Daryn >>>> >>>
