Hello from Singapore! I’ve about 4-5 T100 and T102’s that I’ve collected and wonder if there are any Tandy enthusiasts here? Would enjoy meeting up to share goodies, etc.
Paul Sussman On 19/9/18, 4:59 AM, "[email protected] on behalf of [email protected]" <[email protected] on behalf of [email protected]> wrote: Send M100 mailing list submissions to [email protected] To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://lists.bitchin100.com/listinfo.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [email protected] You can reach the person managing the list at [email protected] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of M100 digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Josh Malone) 2. Dead lines in the LCD (Ian Eure) 3. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Ian Eure) 4. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Kevin Becker) 5. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Daryn Hanright) 6. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Daryn Hanright) 7. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Gary Hammond) 8. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (Daryn Hanright) 9. Re: Dead lines in the LCD (Greg Swallow) 10. Re: Gonna need to replace my NiCad (John R. Hogerhuis) 11. Re: laser pc4 (Peter Vollan) 12. Re: program library in WAV format (Peter Vollan) 13. Re: laser pc4 (Kevin Becker) 14. Re: laser pc4 (John R. Hogerhuis) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 16:41:11 -0400 From: Josh Malone <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <CAB==wonqe3+x3ajzzdxfk4d+wn3twflj979ddc1kfwmty0y...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair amount of heat sink there. I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could damage the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for someone to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill <[email protected]> wrote: > It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering the new one > in is pretty simple.. > > On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Hey gang >> >> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the ghost, so have >> ordered this: >> >> >> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >> >> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have negligible >> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely destroy the >> machine? >> >> cheers >> Daryn >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180917/40bc4bec/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 19:04:59 -0700 From: Ian Eure <[email protected]> To: "m100\@bitchin100.com" <[email protected]> Subject: [M100] Dead lines in the LCD Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed I just got a 102 off eBay today. It was sold as working, but arrived with four dead lines in the LCD. They?re horizontal, from the 2nd row, and repeat every 16 pixels. I opened it up and it worked fine. I figured it was the cable, so I sprayed some DeOxIt in there and put it back together, only to find the problem was back again. Taking a closer look, there?s something making marginal contact on the LCD board. When it?s flexed slightly, the lines vanish, and the case presses on it just enough to make the problem crop up. It felt like a bad solder joint to me, but after inspecting every connection with a 20x loupe, I didn?t see anything obviously wrong. I suppose that still might be the case, since it?s awful hard to see the tiny SMD joints, even at 20x. Is there a common failure mode for these panels or something else I should be looking at? Based on my reading of the schematic and tapping around, I suspected M11 might have a marginal connection, so I resoldered all its legs -- still nothing. I don?t see how the panel itself is connected to the PCB. Perhaps there are pads on the top side and it?s simply the friction of the panel sitting on the board that does it? The more I poke around, the more I think it might be the PCB to panel connection. Any suggestions on what to look at to get this machine 100%? -- Ian ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 19:38:42 -0700 From: Ian Eure <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Desoldering the battery isn?t a big deal. Start by clipping it out, leaving just the legs soldered in. This makes the whole procedure much safer and easier. You really don?t want to sink heat into a battery, it?s an explosion risk. Once the body of the battery is gone, use needle-nose pliers to grab the leg on the top side while heating from the solder side of the board. Pull gently on the pliers once the solder melts, and the leg will come right out. Then you clear whatever solder is left in the holes, repeat for the other side, and solder in the new battery. If you have no tools at all, my preferred method is to heat up the through hole, then smack the board on the workbench. The momentum will make the solder splash right out. Crude, but effective. You can also use a soldapullt, this is very easy when the battery is removed. Put it on the parts side while heating from the bottom and pop it when the solder melts. I?ve never had any luck with desoldering braid, so I don?t recommend it. A good soldering iron and the right tip make all the difference in the world. It?s scary how much better it is. I?m using an older Hakko station, the current model is the FX-888D. They last forever. I got mine used, have had it for at least six years, do an above-average amount of soldering, and haven?t even needed to replace the tip. Hard to beat for the money: https://amzn.to/2QCsWh3 Another option is the TS100. This is an open source iron that runs off a 12v wall wart. There are a jillion manufacturers, and they all sell for around $60: https://amzn.to/2OyQvWP -- Once you factor an extra tip and power supply into the equation, it?s pretty close to the $100 mark, so you might be better off with the Hakko. Those are the top end of the low end solde station market. Just about anything cheaper is junk. Those cheapo Weller and Aoyue stations are just awful, don?t waste your money on them. No matter the iron, I?ve found the screwdriver shaped or "chisel" tip to work best for me. It holds the solder great and transfers heat much better due to the large surface area you can put in contact with the part. For the FX-888D, T18-D16 is what you want: https://amzn.to/2QDYcw0 -- For the TS100, the TS-D24: https://amzn.to/2QBBFA1 Josh Malone writes: > Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a > fair amount > of heat sink there. > > I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you > could damage > the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking > for someone > to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? > > On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill > <[email protected]> wrote: > >> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering >> the new one >> in is pretty simple.. >> >> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright >> <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> Hey gang >>> >>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the >>> ghost, so have >>> ordered this: >>> >>> >>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>> >>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have >>> negligible >>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely >>> destroy the >>> machine? >>> >>> cheers >>> Daryn >>> >> ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2018 19:44:15 -0700 From: Kevin Becker <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <caklkk+szzkqyfae2u1o1+kjhy4jjiyjqc5q6xpcy3gbmqfy...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Solder braid/wick has generally worked well for me. You may need to add some flux to it to really get it to wick properly. If you don?t have any flux, adding some fresh rosin core solder works too. - Kevin > On Sep 17, 2018, at 10:38 PM, Ian Eure <[email protected]> wrote: > > Desoldering the battery isn?t a big deal. Start by clipping it > out, > leaving just the legs soldered in. This makes the whole procedure > much safer and easier. You really don?t want to sink heat into a > battery, it?s an explosion risk. > > Once the body of the battery is gone, use needle-nose pliers to > grab > the leg on the top side while heating from the solder side of the > board. Pull gently on the pliers once the solder melts, and the > leg > will come right out. Then you clear whatever solder is left in > the > holes, repeat for the other side, and solder in the new battery. > > If you have no tools at all, my preferred method is to heat up the > through hole, then smack the board on the workbench. The momentum > will make the solder splash right out. Crude, but effective. > > You can also use a soldapullt, this is very easy when the battery > is > removed. Put it on the parts side while heating from the bottom > and > pop it when the solder melts. > > I?ve never had any luck with desoldering braid, so I don?t > recommend > it. > > A good soldering iron and the right tip make all the difference in > the world. It?s scary how much better it is. I?m using an older > Hakko station, the current model is the FX-888D. They last > forever. > I got mine used, have had it for at least six years, do an > above-average amount of soldering, and haven?t even needed to > replace > the tip. Hard to beat for the money: https://amzn.to/2QCsWh3 > > Another option is the TS100. This is an open source iron that > runs > off a 12v wall wart. There are a jillion manufacturers, and they > all > sell for around $60: https://amzn.to/2OyQvWP -- Once you factor an > extra tip and power supply into the equation, it?s pretty close to > the > $100 mark, so you might be better off with the Hakko. > > Those are the top end of the low end solde station market. Just > about > anything cheaper is junk. Those cheapo Weller and Aoyue stations > are > just awful, don?t waste your money on them. > > No matter the iron, I?ve found the screwdriver shaped or "chisel" > tip > to work best for me. It holds the solder great and transfers heat > much better due to the large surface area you can put in contact > with > the part. For the FX-888D, T18-D16 is what you want: > https://amzn.to/2QDYcw0 -- For the TS100, the TS-D24: > https://amzn.to/2QBBFA1 > > Josh Malone writes: > >> Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a >> fair amount >> of heat sink there. >> >> I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you >> could damage >> the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking >> for someone >> to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? >> >> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill >> <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering >>> the new one >>> in is pretty simple.. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright >>> <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>>> Hey gang >>>> >>>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the >>>> ghost, so have >>>> ordered this: >>>> >>>> >>>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>>> >>>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have >>>> negligible >>>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely >>>> destroy the >>>> machine? >>>> >>>> cheers >>>> Daryn >>>> >>> ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 16:01:45 +1200 From: Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <CAPxfMQXRK-kz8qwp3KrVf9bZUa68+vT5GsHu=fmcf2yzyhd...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :) Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & given risks of me stuffing it up, I might try & get someone todo it for me. A new Tandy 102 is invariably double the ebay cost with shipping out here. cheers Daryn On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 8:41 AM Josh Malone <[email protected]> wrote: > Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair amount > of heat sink there. > > I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could damage > the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for someone > to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? > > On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill <[email protected]> > wrote: > >> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering the new one >> in is pretty simple.. >> >> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> Hey gang >>> >>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the ghost, so have >>> ordered this: >>> >>> >>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>> >>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have negligible >>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely destroy the >>> machine? >>> >>> cheers >>> Daryn >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/9d6f1cb6/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 16:03:13 +1200 From: Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <CAPxfMQX9JGnNM6NBNw3Jbv=u8fcubdv+e_sldd+4oocqner...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Cheers guys - I might see if I can find someone who can do this for me. Don't wanna risk ruining it. cheers Daryn On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 4:01 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: > Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :) > > Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & given > risks of me stuffing it up, I might try & get someone todo it for me. A new > Tandy 102 is invariably double the ebay cost with shipping out here. > > cheers > Daryn > > On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 8:41 AM Josh Malone <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair >> amount of heat sink there. >> >> I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could damage >> the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for someone >> to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? >> >> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill <[email protected]> >> wrote: >> >>> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering the new >>> one in is pretty simple.. >>> >>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >>>> Hey gang >>>> >>>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the ghost, so >>>> have ordered this: >>>> >>>> >>>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>>> >>>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have negligible >>>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely destroy the >>>> machine? >>>> >>>> cheers >>>> Daryn >>>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/235dfa50/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 05:14:44 +0000 From: Gary Hammond <[email protected]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <bn6pr01mb25968a5a1b1f9385a0f3ea26c4...@bn6pr01mb2596.prod.exchangelabs.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If you are in or near Christchurch, I can do it for you. On 18 September 2018 4:03:29 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: Cheers guys - I might see if I can find someone who can do this for me. Don't wanna risk ruining it. cheers Daryn On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 4:01 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :) Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & given risks of me stuffing it up, I might try & get someone todo it for me. A new Tandy 102 is invariably double the ebay cost with shipping out here. cheers Daryn On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 8:41 AM Josh Malone <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair amount of heat sink there. I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could damage the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for someone to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering the new one in is pretty simple.. On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: Hey gang My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the ghost, so have ordered this: https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html<https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jameco.com%2Fz%2FNHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C10a6b52f9d254285a15a08d61d1bb0de%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636728402093518958&sdata=djTHDSDAlCj3OjI9RwvCtTyMTwccbi1HHMKA8Fx7kT4%3D&reserved=0> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have negligible soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely destroy the machine? cheers Daryn -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/a0cc7829/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 17:30:01 +1200 From: Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <capxfmqvpwm6n+hubg6hmg48_8btov8eysfhbv6smpd8m+zp...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Ha! I am in Christchurch Gary! Crazy! Have ordered the replacement batteries - maybe touch base when they arrive? If you could help that would be brilliant On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 5:14 PM Gary Hammond <[email protected]> wrote: > If you are in or near Christchurch, I can do it for you. > > On 18 September 2018 4:03:29 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Cheers guys - I might see if I can find someone who can do this for me. >> Don't wanna risk ruining it. >> >> cheers >> Daryn >> >> On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 4:01 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> Ha! Is New Zealand considered far away! :) >>> >>> Ideally given how hard it is to replace one all the way out here, & >>> given risks of me stuffing it up, I might try & get someone todo it for me. >>> A new Tandy 102 is invariably double the ebay cost with shipping out here. >>> >>> cheers >>> Daryn >>> >>> On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 8:41 AM Josh Malone <[email protected]> >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Need to make sure you have a powerful-enough iron as there's a fair >>>> amount of heat sink there. >>>> >>>> I doubt you would *completely* destroy the machine, but you could >>>> damage the battery connections. Where are you located? Are you looking for >>>> someone to do the job or wanting to tackle it yourself? >>>> >>>> On Mon, Sep 17, 2018, 01:05 Gregory McGill <[email protected]> >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> It's more the de-soldering that's the tricky part.. soldering the new >>>>> one in is pretty simple.. >>>>> >>>>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM Daryn Hanright <[email protected]> >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Hey gang >>>>>> >>>>>> My Tandy 102's NiCad finally looks like its giving up the ghost, so >>>>>> have ordered this: >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> https://www.jameco.com/z/NHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html >>>>>> <https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.jameco.com%2Fz%2FNHB60H3A2H-Evergreen-Battery-Nimh-3-6Volt80Mah-2-Pins-Std-14-16Hrs-8Ma-6Hrs-16Ma_2137473.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C10a6b52f9d254285a15a08d61d1bb0de%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636728402093518958&sdata=djTHDSDAlCj3OjI9RwvCtTyMTwccbi1HHMKA8Fx7kT4%3D&reserved=0> >>>>>> >>>>>> In terms of difficulty replacing the NiCad given I have negligible >>>>>> soldering skills...how hard? Is it possible I could completely destroy the >>>>>> machine? >>>>>> >>>>>> cheers >>>>>> Daryn >>>>>> >>>>> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/5d190595/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 08:45:23 -0400 (EDT) From: Greg Swallow <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Dead lines in the LCD Message-ID: <[email protected]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Just to be sure. Is the black insulator in place between the keyboard/LCD and motherboard? God Bless, GregS <>< ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ian Eure" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Sent: Monday, September 17, 2018 7:04:59 PM Subject: [M100] Dead lines in the LCD I just got a 102 off eBay today. It was sold as working, but arrived with four dead lines in the LCD. They?re horizontal, from the 2nd row, and repeat every 16 pixels. I opened it up and it worked fine. I figured it was the cable, so I sprayed some DeOxIt in there and put it back together, only to find the problem was back again. Taking a closer look, there?s something making marginal contact on the LCD board. When it?s flexed slightly, the lines vanish, and the case presses on it just enough to make the problem crop up. It felt like a bad solder joint to me, but after inspecting every connection with a 20x loupe, I didn?t see anything obviously wrong. I suppose that still might be the case, since it?s awful hard to see the tiny SMD joints, even at 20x. Is there a common failure mode for these panels or something else I should be looking at? Based on my reading of the schematic and tapping around, I suspected M11 might have a marginal connection, so I resoldered all its legs -- still nothing. I don?t see how the panel itself is connected to the PCB. Perhaps there are pads on the top side and it?s simply the friction of the panel sitting on the board that does it? The more I poke around, the more I think it might be the PCB to panel connection. Any suggestions on what to look at to get this machine 100%? -- Ian ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 12:07:35 -0700 From: "John R. Hogerhuis" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] Gonna need to replace my NiCad Message-ID: <cacutkuj5svo38dzi+-n8s-nxtvvwxokc_f0vr21y-wno6km...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Good stuff! Bitchin100 facilitates a real life techie bromance :-) Cheers! -- John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/a97a8689/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 12:16:02 -0700 From: Peter Vollan <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] laser pc4 Message-ID: <ca+g2jxkfexjuzc_kfeicufvzetwevh9zhad2+cdvdgc+jk8...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Did my message get through? The unit has basic, but it is type I am not familiar with On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 at 23:42, Peter Vollan <[email protected]> wrote: > > Just picked one up. It has a Thesaurus cartridge. ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 12:18:31 -0700 From: Peter Vollan <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] program library in WAV format Message-ID: <ca+g2jxkjgedw8rtshnb5542nn90g4u+juaopanpsiistqmf...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Stay away from tape, play straight to your m100 or use an mp3 player for a "drive". On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 at 12:37, Steven Ranft <[email protected]> wrote: > > Hi Jesus, > > Thanks for all the effort! Good job. > > I found the link for Cribbage CRIBGE.BA 12362 (07-02-88) gave > > The requested URL /golfgon/cribge.wav was not found on this server. > > But otherwise the ones I checked were all downloadable. > > I have not tried to save them to tape or play them yet > > Thanks, > Steve > > ------------------------------ > *From:* M100 <[email protected]> on behalf of Jesus R < > [email protected]> > *Sent:* Sunday, September 16, 2018 1:50 PM > *To:* [email protected] > *Subject:* [M100] program library in WAV format > > As an update I have pretty much completed the archival process for the > games in the club100 website. Next I plan to hit drives and utility > programs. > > > https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m7QRN1I5KpJJO_RKYnwFhmrluDjbYm6bEe_rIgz80ug/edit#gid=1942875794 > > <https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m7QRN1I5KpJJO_RKYnwFhmrluDjbYm6bEe_rIgz80ug/edit#gid=1942875794> > TRS 80 Model 100 - audio software archive > <https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1m7QRN1I5KpJJO_RKYnwFhmrluDjbYm6bEe_rIgz80ug/edit#gid=1942875794> > docs.google.com > USAGE ** THESE ARE TOKENIZED BASIC FILES IN CASSETTE COMPATIBLE FORMAT > USAGE: 1. Connect the cassette transfer cable between the unit and your > source. 2. From BASIC on your unit type: cload" cas: filename. ba" and > press Enter. 3. On your source select the corresponding file and play it at > 1... > > > > It would be nice to have some people try it out and provide any feedback. > > Jesus R > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/08537a92/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 16:10:21 -0400 From: Kevin Becker <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] laser pc4 Message-ID: <CAKLkK+vxjc0N33bbmZ97MXDekZ=wy_ltgmj9m4coypegv77...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I saw your message, but it's not a computer that I am familiar with. On Tue, Sep 18, 2018 at 3:16 PM, Peter Vollan <[email protected]> wrote: > Did my message get through? The unit has basic, but it is type I am > not familiar with > > On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 at 23:42, Peter Vollan <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > Just picked one up. It has a Thesaurus cartridge. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/1bd3a348/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2018 13:13:41 -0700 From: "John R. Hogerhuis" <[email protected]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [M100] laser pc4 Message-ID: <cacutkuj1aj2dkxe4eajd9vg3muthr9pkdn07tq-ta2ggedc...@mail.gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I saw your message. I think the Laser PC4 qualifies as a true portable by my definition. http://bitchin100.com/wiki/index.php?title=True_Portable_Definition https://oldcomputermuseum.com/laser_pc4.html Whatever experiences you can share would be great. -- John. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20180918/04659ea6/attachment-0001.html> ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ M100 mailing list [email protected] http://lists.bitchin100.com/listinfo.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com ------------------------------ End of M100 Digest, Vol 93, Issue 16 ************************************
