NO, I did not replace the tantalums. Typically, they ‘popcorn’ when bad and if 
there are no trouble symptoms, I don’t replace them as a matter of course.

 

You will see a wrist strap in some of my other videos. I’m in the habit 
touching ground on a regular basis and don’t shuffle or jump around quickly so 
I’ve never had an issue with ESD (as an adult). But I do try to set a good 
example. I’ve been thinking about moving my grounding jack for the strap to the 
front/underside of the table to keep the silly strap from being draped all over 
my work.

 

Arcade shopper has new memory modules in stock and memory batteries. I used a 
supercap in the video, which works, but does not last as long as a new NiMh 
cell. Arcadeshopper carries the batteries and I have them on my website too.

 

Jeff Birt (Hey_Birt)

 

From: M100 <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Ed Graffius
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2019 10:23 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [M100] Have a question about my M100

 

Hey Birt! lol, I am watching your video now....did you replace any of the 
'tants?  I know that as they age they break down such that they introduce stray 
rfi...for the low uF NPs, did you try any films?

 

(and there is a lot of CMOS in there so where is your ESD strap!!!  (old IBM 
habits die hard  ;-))

 

thanks again, I have most of the parts in stock from my stereo restoration 
hobby - silicon and ECs so I will get to this as soon as I carve out some block 
time.   excited to see it run.

 

btw - has base memory only....any leads on NOS or manufactured memory for it?

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey Birt <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
To: m100 <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
Sent: Fri, May 17, 2019 11:04 am
Subject: Re: [M100] Have a question about my M100

Ed,

 

Corrosion is a sure sign of leaking electrolytic caps. I did a video on a 
recap, link below. In the description is a link to a PDF with a color-coded 
capacitor map and part numbers for replacement caps from Mouser.

https://youtu.be/IGTdNMx1V1w

 

Jeff_Birt (Hey Birt!)

 

 

From: M100 <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > On Behalf Of Ed Graffius
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2019 9:22 AM
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> 
Subject: Re: [M100] Have a question about my M100

 

thanks guys....I have not used a listserv in decades so forgive..lol

 

ok, opened it up and the nicad has 4.8ish volts on it.  got a 6v PS and 
batteries in, have contrast wheel middle of the road and memory switch is on.

 

I probed R127 and the collector of T21 and got 122Khz oscillation.  Sound 
reasonable?

 

I probed VDD and get 5.something volts.  VEE gives me -.7v which is slightly 
less than the spec of -5v, this is all with respect to the transformer output 
ground.

 

D15 (1S2076) appears to be badly corroded and Vf is 1.9v (all other glass 
silicon is in the .521-.560 range which I expect.  I think this negates the 
efforts of zener D14.

 

Theory:  lack of -5v prevents the LCD from lighting up?

 

so I was gonna tear it further apart and replace ALL the 1S2076 (35v, 450ma, 
250mw) with either 1N914 or 1N4148 (much superior) - I dont think I have to Vf 
match any of them?

 

btw - the <enter>, 'B''E'E'P' <enter> works, so that means the CPU is CPUing?

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Josh Malone <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
To: m100 <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >
Sent: Fri, May 17, 2019 9:49 am
Subject: Re: [M100] Have a question about my M100

On Fri, May 17, 2019 at 9:44 AM Stephen Adolph <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote: 


>
> power on,
> hit enter
> type BEEP then enter
>
> if you hear a beep, your machine is running.  Maybe with no display.



I'd suggest opening it up pronto and removing that memory battery.
Just snip it out if you don't feel like soldering. If it's completely
dead, it can drag down the voltage rail to the RAM and cause system
failure. This often presents as having to let your memory battery
charge overnight (provide system power via DC or batteries, switch
memory power on and wait) before it will boot. If you remove the
memory NiCd entirely you eliminate this potential problem. Plus, it
needs to come out, anyway.
(https://twitter.com/48kRAM/status/1082807102714904576)

-Josh 

 

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