Same thing for the memory switch. Just hit it with deoxit at work it several times. It should be perfect in a few seconds (No potential 2 weeks drying time because it's not a tightly closed enclosure, plus it's a crude power circuit not a super sensitive signal like the contrast pot. It works fine even while still drenched). Never heard of the switch actually being bad other than just dirty or oxidized.
If you removed the memory battery but didn't put a new one back in it's place, get a new one and install it. Google/ebay "3/v80h 2p" or go to arcadeshopper.com bkw On Sat, Jul 17, 2021, 12:13 AM Brian White <[email protected]> wrote: > Usually DeoxIt clears up the contrast pot. Just spray it, don't worry > about overspray, operate it a few times, wait an hour, operate a few more > times, then possibly wait some more for the interior to dry. Can possibly > take as long as a couple weeks if it was really drenched. > > The entire screen may go faint while it's wet but it comes back as it > dries, don't worry if you see that. > > Also check for bad solder joints since the pot is subject to mechanical > force from outside. Always possible it took a hit somewhere along the way > in 35 years. > > bkw > > On Fri, Jul 16, 2021, 10:28 PM Earl Baugh <[email protected]> wrote: > >> Howdy! >> >> I’m new to the list and recently picked up a model 100 that needed some >> restoration. A friend helped me get the bad caps replaced, cleaned the >> power plug and we diagnosed a bad member switch and bad pot for the lcd >> contrast adjustment. It’s working again (hurrah), with a solder bridge on >> the switch and some resistors temporarily in place of the pot. ( we also >> removed the battery before any leakage or damage ) >> >> Is there anyplace where I can get replacement parts for the pot and >> switch without digging thru a Mouser or Digikey catalog? ( or the part >> numbers at least to save a number of mis orders? 😊) >> >> Earl >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone > >
