I had no issues replacing either the battery or the caps. Everything flowed fine. Must be living right.
Sent from my iPhone > On Feb 16, 2023, at 07:02, [email protected] wrote: > > I would recommend not trying to use a desoldering tool directly. They did > not use thermal reliefs on the pads going into ground/VCC pours which makes > it difficult to heat up properly. Use the soldering iron to heat one leg and > push the top of that cap to the opposite side. Then do the same for the other > leg. It will take 3-4 repetitions, but you can 'walk' the cap out this way. > Now you have full access to the pads top and bottom to remove the solder. > > If the solder is really corroded, you will need to carefully scrape the > crusty stuff off before you can heat it enough to remove the part. The > tin/lead oxides that form from corrosion have a much higher melting > temperature, so they have to be physically removed. > > I have used a small heat gun, one I use for heat shrink tubing (not for > component removal), to preheat a difficult PCB to 100C or so. This can help > but don't go crazy, keep the temp low. > > Go to YouTube, search for "Hey Birt!", my channel, and from the channel page > search for M100 or Model 100 and you will find a lot of videos where I show > this process. > > Jeff Birt > > -----Original Message----- > From: M100 <[email protected]> On Behalf Of ho collo > Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 7:41 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: SPAM-LOW: [M100] Recap and new battery > > I picked up a Model 100 from the flea market for $10 and was shocked it > actually worked. Waiting on a new battery from MO, but did get my caps in > today. I’ve been told the caps may be difficult to remove. Has anyone tried > using a heat gun on a low setting prior to attempting? Did it work out for > you? > > Ho. > > Sent from my iPhone > > >
